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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Put a hotcams stage 1 in and a full yoshi rs3.
Dynojet jet 146/148 jets

when its cold it doesn't like to idle too well, but idles fine after warming up.
if I dont give it a whole lot of throttle it rides fine till it gets into the higher rpms,
or if I try and do anything at or higher than 1/2 throttle, then it starts to sputter.
Sputters for a second then seems to clear itself out and takes off.

No noticeable popping on deceleration.

Thoughts?
 

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Put in DJ 146/148 and try that. What's your elevation and air filter setup?
 

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check your carb boots for any leaks or tears and be sure that when you reinstalled the diaphragms in the carbs that they were intact and well-sealed without getting pinched.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
DECEPTiON21 said:
Put in DJ 146/148 and try that. What's your elevation and air filter setup?
I'm sorry, I got my numbers mixed up. I have the 146/148 in cause thats what the Dynojet instructions said for full exhaust and below 3000 feet.

I'm at just under 1000 feet above sea level. K&N filter with the stock airbox/lid with a couple of holes drilled.
 

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mine is doing the same thing, except i have a k&N with no lid just outerwears...i have tried 25 pilots, and 27.5 pilots...i am going to put back in the 22.5 stock pilots and try that. I am runing 165/170 mains neelde on the 4th and top end is sweet.

I need help to...i started a new thread for my issue..
 

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I did a full write up on what needles to use and my dyno proved that the GYT-R needles on a stage 1 cam-ed raptor with a ported head was supplying way to much fuel. If you drive slowly and you floor it, the bike would stutter and then pull smooth thru the RPM.

The DJ needles are the right needles to use.

If you are running a full pipe, with open airbox and aftermarket air cleaner, then install the 148/150 main jets. Run a 27.5 pilot with about 3 turns out and also install the stock slide springs. Don't run the DJ slide springs with an open airbox.

Then, the DJ instructions will tell you to run the needles in clip 4. With an open airbox, that setting is dumping way to much fuel into the motor at under 4000 RPM, so put the needles in clip 2. If that still does not work, drop them to clip 1 on the needles. Clip position is from the blunt end of the needle, with the white plastic washer underneath the clip and then the thin metal washer underneath the plastic washer.

If that still does not work, try running both the DJ and stock slide springs. Both springs into each carb. Press the springs together and install them together into the carbs. Do not use the springs on top of each other.

That should sort it out.

Also, try the 150/155 main jets as an option, and do the clear tube checks and float mods in the sticky section.
 

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Freez said:
I did a full write up on what needles to use and my dyno proved that the GYT-R needles on a stage 1 cam-ed raptor with a ported head was supplying way to much fuel. If you drive slowly and you floor it, the bike would stutter and then pull smooth thru the RPM.

The DJ needles are the right needles to use.

If you are running a full pipe, with open airbox and aftermarket air cleaner, then install the 148/150 main jets. Run a 27.5 pilot with about 3 turns out and also install the stock slide springs. Don't run the DJ slide springs with an open airbox.

Then, the DJ instructions will tell you to run the needles in clip 4. With an open airbox, that setting is dumping way to much fuel into the motor at under 4000 RPM, so put the needles in clip 2. If that still does not work, drop them to clip 1 on the needles. Clip position is from the blunt end of the needle, with the white plastic washer underneath the clip and then the thin metal washer underneath the plastic washer.

If that still does not work, try running both the DJ and stock slide springs. Both springs into each carb. Press the springs together and install them together into the carbs. Do not use the springs on top of each other.

That should sort it out.

Also, try the 150/155 main jets as an option, and do the clear tube checks and float mods in the sticky section.
i have the same set up..i have dj jets 146 148..so your saying to go to a 148 150..wont that be way to rich...and the needles do you mean the second down from the top..thanks for the advice
 

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I am at 4800 ft above sea level, with very hot conditions, so in theory I should be running much smaller jets than guys at the coast with cooler temperatures.

A 660 with a full pipe, open airbox, Pro design air cleaner, running my carb and intake mods, all use 146/148 to 148/150 mains here. The dyno runs tell me that it’s the right jets to get the best A/F ratio out of the carbs.

Also, if you take these bikes to the coast, you should up the mains, hence me telling you to run 148/150 or even 150/155's with the needle in clip 2 or 1 from the top.

My own 660 is running a sparks pipe, carb and intake mods and a L&A airbox eliminator with K&N and I am running 160/165 mains. The motor is still stock. In winter I have run 165/170 mains no problems.

All jet sizes I mentioned are DJ jet sizes.
 
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