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Discussion Starter #1
Good evening Raptor 660 riders, needing some help here over in Oregon. 05 raptor having troubles starting. At first it started all the time every time. It then was a little finicky when hitting I the street button, sometime I would hear a couple of clicks, but not enough to start. After looking at some videos on trouble shooting. I have a new battery, check. I then put a wrench on the starter cyliniod, like they said to do, and it attempted to start. So I thought it was just that, the starter cyliniod. I was happy when the new one arrived today. I eagerly put it in, hooked everything back up, hit the start button, and my smile of anticipation left abruptly. I put the wrench back on the two starter cyliniod post and yes, it attempted to start again. Here is my question, i would hate to replace my starter for not. Am I missing something here? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Would hate to drop another smile. STAY SAFE AND HEALTHY
 

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I bet its the battery. You have a voltmeter? It should read well over 12v just sitting there, and make sure the voltage doesnt drop way off when you hit the start button. Try to jump start it from a car if no voltmeter is available

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I may be getting older, but I refuse to grow up!
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Yep, it's the battery. You should have a battery reading of 13.5 volts. Even new batteries require a few days on a trickle/float charger.

As 4stroker said, jump from a car battery.

Still don't work, check all battery cables for clean and shiny connections. Don't forget the ground cable too.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I bet its the battery. You have a voltmeter? It should read well over 12v just sitting there, and make sure the voltage doesnt drop way off when you hit the start button. Try to jump start it from a car if no voltmeter is available

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
Will try. Thank you for responding. stay safe
 

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Discussion Starter #5
UGH, the anticipation smile has disappeared yet once again. I took both or your guys advice, went straight out and went and bought a new battery this morning, hooked everything back up,,,,,,,DRUM ROLL...….NADA. I do have a volt meter and it is reading at 12.6. I am so lost gentlemen. I hope I am not out of my league on this on. Again, open to any suggestions that you all might have. Once again please and thank you.
 

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I may be getting older, but I refuse to grow up!
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In your first post you said you had a new battery, that should be trickle/float charged to at least 13.5 volts. Did you buy another new battery?

Did you try jumping from a car battery? Do it

Did you buy a OEM solenoid or a Chinese clone?

Did you clean all battery and starter cables?. Also look for white corrosion where the wires crimp in the terminals.
 

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Have a friend try to start it while your reading the voltmeter. Does the voltage drop when the start button is pressed?

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #8
In your first post you said you had a new battery, that should be trickle/float charged to at least 13.5 volts. Did you buy another new battery? YES, NEW BATTERY

Did you try jumping from a car battery? Do it I DID NOT, REST ASURRED, THAT WILL BE MY NEXT STEP

Did you buy a OEM solenoid or a Chinese clone? DO I HAVE TO ANSWER THAT, IT WAS NOT OEM, THE MANUFACTURE WAS "DKIIGAME" (LOL)

Did you clean all battery and starter cables?. Also look for white corrosion where the wires crimp in the terminal YES, THAT PART BE TRUE.

Question for ya,

Say the starter is bad, would that prevent the cylinoid from making the clicking sound when I hit the starter?
 

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I may be getting older, but I refuse to grow up!
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The start switch triggers the small wires on the solenoid to operate. The solenoid operates with 'one' click and engages the starter thru the big wires. A lot of solenoid clicking is a indication of low battery voltage. Continued clicking will overheat the solenoid, welding the contacts together. Low voltage increases amperage. Amperage is what damages things.

Jump from your car. Be sure it's a good connection. If the solenoid doesn't work, jump it. If you have good voltage the starter should turn.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The start switch triggers the small wires on the solenoid to operate. The solenoid operates with 'one' click and engages the starter thru the big wires. A lot of solenoid clicking is a indication of low battery voltage. Continued clicking will overheat the solenoid, welding the contacts together. Low voltage increases amperage. Amperage is what damages things.

Jump from your car. Be sure it's a good connection. If the solenoid doesn't work, jump it. If you have good voltage the starter should turn.
Thanks
[U]DEZPERADO,[/U] knowledge is power
 

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Discussion Starter #12
New battery on trickle charger, will attempt to jump start with car battery in the morning. Hopefully the smile will re-appear. I will also try the others suggestions and have my gal assist with volt meter. Till next post. Again, thanks Raptor forum
 

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Another thing to make starting easier is to check the valve adjustment. Especially the intake valves.
 

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If the starter turns the engine over at normal speed when you short across the two large lugs on the solenoid, I can tell you what IS okay:
1 Battery and its charge (voltage) are fine
2 battery cables (positive and negative) are connected, clean and not corroded
3 cable from solenoid to starter is connected and clean
4 the starter itself is operating properly

Back to original troubleshooting - IF you hear a single loud CLICK from the solenoid each time you press the start button (but starter motor doesn't turn) when tried many times
AND
the starter motor DOES turn the engine over normally when you short across the two large solenoid lugs, the SOLENOID is bad or mis-wired PERIOD. I don't care if it's new or not, this test doesn't lie. A couple of simple voltage measurements will tell us what is the culprit if the above is your case.

If you don't hear the click, then we need to look elsewhere. Or If the starter doesn't turn when you short across the lugs, we need to look elsewhere.

Tell us again EXACTLY what your symptoms are relative to what I have described above BEFORE YOU BUY ANYTHING ELSE!

After you answer these, I can tell you exactly what and where to measure, and what to exercise while measuring, to figure this out in a hurry.

BTW, there are several things in talking about this that we must agree upon -
STARTING the engine consists of two separate actions: Cranking then running

1 - CRANKING (sometimes called Turning over) is the starter motor causing the crankshaft to turn
2 - Once the crankshaft turns, air and fuel get sucked into the cylinder, the mixture gets compressed, the spark ignites the mixture causing the piston to push down on the crank and the engine begins RUNNING - the starter is no longer needed to turn the crank.

CRANKING (via the starter motor getting current from the battery) does not necessarily guarantee RUNNING (fuel, air, compression, spark, etc.,all correct, so the engine can continue running on its own) Of course, the engine MUST be cranked (whether by starter motor, pushing the vehicle, pushing down on a kick starter, pulling a starting rope, etc) prior to its running - it just doesn't start on its own!

So, I am assuming, from your text to date, that your issue is related to CRANKING - that you can't get the starter to turn the engine over (NOT that it IS cranking but won't run on its own). Is this correct? Then follow my questions above - leading to getting the starter to turn over. Otherwise, let us know - turning over but not starting is a completely different beast with different troubleshooting necessary.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Wealth of knowledge
QuadManiac…...Going to start fresh when I go home which will be tomorrow and discuss in depth. But what I can tell you is that is does have a brand new battery and
solenoid. When I hit the starter button, I have to hit it in just the right spot for it to work
 

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Master of the Electron
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So, you are saying that the start button is being finnicky? Very common when water and dirt get into it... Assuming this IS the case, pull the switch assembly off the bars - a few screws on the back - and clean out the switch area with contact cleaner (preferred), brake cleaner or WD-40 while pressing the button over and over and 'sliding' the button around in a circle to try to get rid of as much gunk as possible.

The run/stop switch can also be affected by this same gunk - so clean it too while you're in there - spray while exercising the switch vigorously.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Cleaned the switch, and jump start from battery and nothing. But check this out, not sure if this has anything to do with it or not. I started the beast up by crossing soliniod, and holy $hit, it appeared gas ( perhaps with a little oil) almost looked liked a premix came puking out of the over flow tube. I turned it off. Looked around to see exactly what the tube what’s hooked to, crank case. Started again, not as much spewed out, but still enough to know this ain’t right. I just had it serviced about a month ago and they did a complete rebuild of carbs and what have you. I brought it back to them today. Time on getting it back is to be determined. I want to say thanks to all who have responded to all my questions. This is the first time I have been on a forum, and am highly impressed . Seems I have found a “new family”. A SINCERE THANK YOU
 

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Master of the Electron
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That sounds like one or both of your carb's float valves could be stuck open, flooding fuel into the cylinder - causing the vent spewing you see AND perhaps causing hydro lock... Not enough evidence to point the finger yet.

Check the oil and see if there's fuel in it.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
That’s what I thought after reading a couple of threads. Disappointed since I just had it serviced and they practically rebuilt them. Non the less, it’s back in their hands.
I wish I had you over here in Oregon as My Mechanic
 

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Master of the Electron
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I wish I had you over here in Oregon as My Mechanic
I'm not a good mechanic, I would charge way too much... I'm a great electrical engineer, though. ;-}
 
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