Factory drain plug is 14mm. Yes, there is a casting in the case preventing the use of a longer plug or tool. Stick a screwdriver in to see how much room there is. You can use a oversize drain plug, thread to a larger size, or, I like a short timesert. Use grease on the plug or tool to catch metal chips. Then flush some oil thru the open hole.
Stripped oil drain plug engine side, need help
Before posting this I did a little research but cannot narrow down the best course of action from the info I'm seeing. I stripped the thread on the oil drain plug on the bottom of the engine. The bolt fine, it's stripped on the engine side. Do I need to buy a new drain bolt a size or two larger and tap the engine side? If so can I get the drain bolt at a local auto parts store? What size do I need? I've noticed people saying there isn't much room above the threaded area making it difficult to tap, is this true? Are there other options instead of retapping it? I have a skid plate installed with an opening to get at the drain plug so I whichever new drain bolt I put on it couldn't hang down lower than the skid plate. Heli coil, timesert?
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Hmm, I just watched a video of a guy installing a time sert into his raptor. Is that the best way to go? From my understanding the time sert installs a steel threaded sleeve after tapping it? And then I'm guessing you can use the stock drain bolt? Is this a better method than simply tapping and having to get a new larger drain plug?
So if I were to choose the time sert method is this the exact kit I need?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0057OX6XC/ref=aag_m_pw_dp?ie=UTF8&m=A2J41G0RQ2IUXB
Would I need a new drain bolt or can I use the old one?
My other question is, if choose to simply tap it and get a larger drain bolt what size do I need to retap it at? 15mm, 16mm? And what exact drain bolt would I need to use? Certain crush washer?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0057OX6XC/ref=aag_m_pw_dp?ie=UTF8&m=A2J41G0RQ2IUXB
Would I need a new drain bolt or can I use the old one?
My other question is, if choose to simply tap it and get a larger drain bolt what size do I need to retap it at? 15mm, 16mm? And what exact drain bolt would I need to use? Certain crush washer?
I wouldn't do a time sert unless you are doing more then one, unless you want the $??? tool. Take your drain plug to your auto store and get a self tapping drain plug. Or, see if you can rent a time sert kit and buy the insert. Or buy a 16mm plug and rent or borrow a 16mm tapered tap, a 16mm bottoming (straight) tap and matching drill bit. Use the tapered tap to start till it's close to the inside case. then use the straight tap. Use grease as mentioned, and flush with oil. CAUTION: put a drill stop on the bit so it doesn't go in the case to far, and mark the taps for the same reason. The part above the filter is thin and can be easily broken off, leaving a chunk of aluminum in the case.
The best way and strongest is a timesert. I myself have never done it but I know in years past that is what many have done. But listen to Dez, he knows his stuff.
Talked to the guy at advanced, he's saying to use an oversized 14mm which is self tapping. Will that work?
Talked to the guy at advanced, he's saying to use an oversized 14mm which is self tapping. Will that work?
Yes, install it with grease on the plug, then remove the plug. Clean any chips from the hole and the plug. Then flush the motor with some oil to get any last chips. Be sure to drain your oil tank. Refill with 2 qt's wet clutch compatible oil. Ride on!
You guys are awesome! Once more quick question, the new drain bolt is longer than the original one. I measured and it will fit without touching inside, it's close but there is clearance. Is that a problem? Also, the washer that came with the bolt is not metal, I don't think it's plastic or rubber, I'm assuming it's some type of heat resistant fiber washer? Is this ok to use? Thanks again!Yes, install it with grease on the plug, then remove the plug. Clean any chips from the hole and the plug. Then flush the motor with some oil to get any last chips. Be sure to drain your oil tank. Refill with 2 qt's wet clutch compatible oil. Ride on!
If you think it might touch, add a solid washer between the bolt head and sealing washer. Use the existing washer, or replace with aluminum or copper. Use a torque wrench to tighten the plug.
The washer on the original bolt seems to be fused on. It won't come off, not without destroying it. This new washer, the one that came with the new bolt is a black fiber kind of thing, I'm guessing it's heat resistant. I've got it on now, filled the engine with oil and brought up to temp and I haven't seen any leaks yet. Should I leave it like this or should I go get a copper washer? I know I should but I never torque it. Do you know the torque specs for that bolt? Thanks again man.If you think it might touch, add a solid washer between the bolt head and sealing washer. Use the existing washer, or replace with aluminum or copper. Use a torque wrench to tighten the plug.
Leave it in. Torque is in your manual.
Yes, install it with grease on the plug, then remove the plug. Clean any chips from the hole and the plug. Then flush the motor with some oil to get any last chips. Be sure to drain your oil tank. Refill with 2 qt's wet clutch compatible oil. Ride on!
what size did you end up gettingTalked to the guy at advanced, he's saying to use an oversized 14mm which is self tapping. Will that work?
I stripped my oil tank drain hole not on the crankcasewhat size did you end up getting
Buying a used tank is the easiest way.I stripped my oil tank drain hole not on the crankcase
They are the same, all years.
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Raptor Forum
A forum community dedicated to Yamaha Raptor owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, news, modifications, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!
Full Forum Listing
