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Discussion Starter #21
Hello

This might be a touch lengthy but please bare with me. Ok so today was my first day out on the trails with this new to me unit, I didn't change any settings on suspension, I wanted to ride it for a baseline. Keep in mind = rear measures about 51 wide, stock A arms, stock swing arm, Works front shocks with resovoirs, unknown aftermarket rear shocks ( has a cover, have not looked yet). The bike rides good and is very predictable but the front needs something. My arms feel like I have tennis elbow. The place we rode is in the north georgia mountains and is very rocky ( boulders). I slid across the lower swing arm a few times. A week ago I ordered a lowering kit ( my bad), Im sending it back as soon as it arrives. Im looking to buy a + 2 swingarm if the forum member still has it. Another thing to note is I ran 10psi all the way around in tires. Havent looked but may be too much. I do plan to send out the works shock to the house member shock gentleman ( would have to look up name again). I am posting a pic of steering stem,,, is this anything special? something better i should get?. It has fly handle bars. After reading this jibberish what do you all recommend? I love this thing. My motocross/trailbike was set up nicely, this thing beat my arms up today.... One last thing,, this is no marsh mellow ride I keep hearing about... Also I forgot to ask.. should I flip link or use the adjustable rear lowering and send front back? I'm a mechanic for a living so the work is not an issue.. Thank you for any input

Kevin.
 

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I'd not flip the link, set your sag property. The lowered crap was for the guys wanting to ride mx...It's not an mx bike. If you get rear shock set up and you dont like it with my arm of you buy it then I'd get an adjustable link to lower to your desired lenght. Good job on sending front flower kit back. They are 200% waste of money.

Get afterNark 660shocks or 04-14 yfz450 carbed model frobts and let jogaca build. Step by step is best way. Don't belive everything from internet. Lot is from kids with no real experience. Been in the game 28 years from $10k banshees to race atcs and been around a ton of legar trx250r 350rx and yz426 roll designs, 350r rotax powervalved $30k roll design trxs....plus I build parts.
 

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Your stem is not factory. That's a lonestar or roll design antivibe stem. It's 3x stonger then the stock sheet metal ones the bend in a roll over. I never linked the Yamaha antivibe because they are about 3" center to center. I build mine with Honda antivibes so the bars don't flex as much. Most antivibes peole run +1 or +2 lenght so your arms are more in a natural position then crouching forward. Mines a +2
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Are the WORKS shocks worthy of sending to Jogaco? Rear shock should be sent too? (I need to look and see what I have).
Tires t pressures?
I kinda told the wifey I wouldnt have to sink $$$$ into the bike... So I need to strategize a little.. Some how I tend to make it happen anyway.. I'll get with you on swingarm Monday even if I dont use it right away. Right now Ive got to get the front less harsh. I dont know mush of the history of front shocks. Is it worth a shot to try to set them up( using the STICKY instructions) in the mean time?
I'll contact Jogaco and see what kind of turn around time I'm looking at.
 

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Highly worth the shot to at least set up per the sticky. They are due for a least a refresher of oil by Jogaca. Oil breaks down after time, causing more damage to the internals.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Will someone educate me on how the accumulators on these shocks work and what they do? I know how accumulators on an aircraft propeller work by helping the propeller pitch into a feathering type mode ( thats what I do for a living) but I'm clueless at the moment on the shocks... After thought , should I just google it?
 

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Call Jogaca (Kevin). 480-262-3216.

He is in Arizona, so keep that in mind for time wise. He will not keep any secrets concerning how to set something up or how things work in suspension. I can't express how much knowledge that guy has and his willingness to help teach someone.
 

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Kevin can build works. Personally I hate works. I spend $700 on an ultracross 7 years ago and it looked good that's about it on a 300ex. Today's factory shocks can get you up an going at about $400 deep if you have fronts. I think Kevin charge me $200 somthing for my year single rate kfx700 shock and like $275 for my dual rate kfx450r front shocks. I had the shocks already. But the longer you go on arms or swingarm the shocks won't work the same. Best to get a arms and swing arm 1st. Then do shocks
 

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I believe your rear is to wide if you have stock a-arms on the front. Rule of thumb is the rear should be narrower then the front. You may have a wider aftermarket axle and thick spacers, offset rear wheels, or extended hubs. Try to narrow it, even running the wheels reversed. Valve stem inside only on the rear, never on the front.

Set up your shocks first. Get the sag adjusted to your weight, set shock adjusters to the middle. Your WORKS shocks may not have any adjustment except sag, (spring). Shock reservoirs hold extra oil for cooling but most important is nitrogen to reduce foaming, (bubbles).

If you run a longer swing arm get the shock built for that, not factory length.

Your steering stem, as said, is a anti vibration system. It helps some but you may need a steering stabilizer, attaches to the bottom of the stem.

What's the off set of your wheels? To much out and not enough in can cause bump steer and arm pump.

I would decrease rear tire pressure to around 5lbs.

Ask Kevin (JOGACA) about your WORKS shocks, if you don't use them maybe use for trade. YFZ shocks won't fit the 660 without mods, (grinding).
 

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Set up your shocks first. Get the sag adjusted to your weight, set shock adjusters to the middle. Your WORKS shocks may not have any adjustment except sag, (spring).

Ask Kevin (JOGACA) about your WORKS shocks, if you don't use them maybe use for trade. YFZ shocks won't fit the 660 without mods, (grinding).
I don't like Works shocks but they may fit without mods. YFZ shocks WILL fit aftermarket a-arms without mods.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Thank you for the input,, I need to process this this info, I only ask about the works shocks because I already have them.
Sounds like I need to start over on the suspension. Im cool with that. My arms ( my personal arms) are torn right now. Im seeking a woods trail ready capable quad. Ill regroup with what I have and get it done. If it takes 450 shocks any good sources? Im not hearing about rear shocks,,, dont know what i have , any suggestions?
 

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I believe your rear is to wide if you have stock a-arms on the front. Rule of thumb is the rear should be narrower then the front. You may have a wider aftermarket axle and thick spacers, offset rear wheels, or extended hubs. Try to narrow it, even running the wheels reversed. Valve stem inside only on the rear, never on the front.

Set up your shocks first. Get the sag adjusted to your weight, set shock adjusters to the middle. Your WORKS shocks may not have any adjustment except sag, (spring). Shock reservoirs hold extra oil for cooling but most important is nitrogen to reduce foaming, (bubbles).

If you run a longer swing arm get the shock built for that, not factory length.

Your steering stem, as said, is a anti vibration system. It helps some but you may need a steering stabilizer, attaches to the bottom of the stem.

What's the off set of your wheels? To much out and not enough in can cause bump steer and arm pump.

I would decrease rear tire pressure to around 5lbs.

Ask Kevin (JOGACA) about your WORKS shocks, if you don't use them maybe use for trade. YFZ shocks won't fit the 660 without mods, (grinding).
Agree with everything here.

Listen to this guy and you'll be just fine.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 

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Your rear shock factory is rebuilable. Its the fronts that never were. If you arms are beat uo I bet somone just thru aftermarket shot on. That's like the guys who put yfz450 shocks on their bike and never have them sit up then say man it's such an upgrade lol. You do it right or you don't do it at all. Are you front rims flipped by chance. That alone will bump steer the hell out of you. That's not the way to widen the front. I'd be interested to see photos of the whole bike. We may see somthing you have no idea about like the flipped rims that have not come up in 4 pages.
 

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Kevin has 450 shocks ready to go at his shop. If not out the works shocks on eBay ppl go nuts over them and then but yfz450s. I paid $150 shipped for my 08 bill ballance ones. This is what kevin can to do them. As far as I know works went out of biz. Website a gone.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Also on the rear axle I put the small spacer on (1/4 inch ish) then the wheel then the large spacer ( 1 1/2 ish) then nut and cotterpin. When I got it all spacers were inside of wheel...
 

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I like the rear of my bike about a half inch to an inch narrower than the front. If the back is wider than the front it will make the bike push through turns. Similar to how a FWD car will continue going straight in a turn. But play with the widths and see what you like.

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Your front end looks factory except for the Works shocks. I believe they are AT Steelers, triple rate. They have only sag adjustment (spring), also known as preload. There is no rebound and compression adjustments.

Your rear brake disc is aftermarket as well as the parking brake block off and braided brake line. Your rear wheels are bead lock. Can I have your rear tires, they look awesome?

I would measure your front track with you on the quad. Then swap spacers on the rear axle to be slightly narrower track then the front. It looks like your rear wheels have lots of offset so do the best you can.
 
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