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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I noticed a site that was selling swing arms for about $425 and they had them from +2 to +14 and I though that was a good deal. Well now my mind is turning and I like the idea of a new swing arm for the raptor. I will be drag racing on a 1/8 packed dirt track during the summer but I want to still be able to drive it around and go through the woods and be with friends and all. My questions:

1What all is needed to change out swing arms?
2What will need to be done? Is it hard?
3Also what length would be good?
I still want to be able to wheelie some, I was guessing the +4 to +6 range??? :p
 

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Machy what mods do you have? I have the same Question. I am haveing kenz do a 6 mil. strok and stock bore with the dmc twin exhaust and was looking at going with a +6 swing arm but would like to keep it fun in the dunes and not just a drager. :3question:
 

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If you want to go throught the woods with your friends...then I would highly suggest NOT going over +1. The longer your wheelbase is, the less nimble it will be. It will handle terrible on the trails, and it wont turn worth a crap. (Think school bus vs. Mini Cooper)

The GNCC racers use a standard length, or a -1 swingarm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
what about +4, I wont be going through the really tight turns, it is mostly kinda wide open and high speed trails. Would getting larger a arms in the front help counter the bad handling of the swing arm. What else is needed with the longer swing arm? Longer brake lines, chain? make a list of extra things I need
 

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I still think a +4 would be too long for anything other than the dunes. +2 would be the absolute max length I would run in the conditions you described.

But anyways...you will need a longer brake line, chain, and parking brake cable (if you still plan to use it). Also, your rear shock will need to be re-valved and re-sprung for the length you run, or you will need to go aftermarket and tell them what you plan to run so they can build it for ya. You might also need a new chain slider and/or roller for the new swing arm. Some s-arms dont even come with mounting points for them...so call ahead and make sure it's got what you want.
 

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Well buddy of mine just put a +6 on his raptor and we still trail ride with no problem, yes real tight spots might be an issue but you can always spin around them. I my self was in the same boat and decide with a +4, and thats what I ordered. Sould have it on by next week. You will need longer brake line, longer chain, and a chain guide off a banshee. I myself don't think it worth the money just for a +1 or +2.
 

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I run a +4" Ace Fab arm. I ride 90% dunes with paddles and 10% desert with knobbie tires.

With the paddles on, I can wheelie at will, but its controllable. With the stock swingarm, it was on the bikes terms.

With the knobbies on its not very easy to wheelie on loose ground.

I took my parking brake off and installed a block off plate. That saves 2 lbs, looks cleaner.

I dont remember how much longer the new chain is. What I can tell you is I got creative and sized the chain up so I could rotate the eccentric straight up therby lowering the rear end ride height.

Im using a TM Designworks Banshee chain guide. It works awesome.

I got a brake line on Ebay for $37 shipped.

I would reccomend you get an axle nut wrench for cheap from Rockymountainatv.com

The job is not hard. Its straight forward.

I wouldnt go longer than 4 unless you want a drag only bike.
 

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Hey Glamis700, do you have a pic of your rear swingarm? I'd like to see this setup. :grin_nod:
 

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Hey Glamis700 what type of chain you run. Also with or without the o-ring. Do you think the extra gain of a none o-ring chain worth it or not.
 

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A little late, but heres a pic.

The chain is an RK. I dont remember the number of links. I dont think its an O ring. I dont have the bike in front of me right now to check.

Every 700 rider ive come accross with a stock swingarm and paddles cant keep the front end down without letting off the gas. I can stay on all the time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
where should I get the chain and brake line from if I go with the +4 or +6 swing arm?

Do you think the +6 would do a better job of keeping the front end planted down or should the +4 have no problem...
 

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For the brake like...look at Galfer ( www.galferusa.com ). There's also a few others....but I cant remember their names off the top of my head.

For a chain...go with whatever you like. DID is good...in fact, thats what comes on these 700's from the factory. You will most likely have to order a longer chain than what you need, and then cut it down to size.
 

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If you really are trying to drag and ride in the woods then I would suggest getting the +6 swing arm and keep the axel the stock width. The turning radius is the only factor in that. The front end will still come off the ground with ease with the motor being built. Then take it out to the woods and get used to ridding it their. After that, you can figure out if you need a wider axel. I do the same thing you do. I also like to jump the crap out of mine. I have a +4 axel also to cure the tippyness.
 

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You are better off with standard length in the woods with standard length. IMO Dragging on packed dirt? No more than +2. The further out the swing arm the less chassis loading you will get. Sand guys can do well with extended swing-arms but they wear paddles which get better hook up in the sand than you will get on packed dirt with knobbies.
You can typically save some unsprung weight with an aftermarket swing arm though.
 

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Machy said:
where should I get the chain and brake line from if I go with the +4 or +6 swing arm?

Do you think the +6 would do a better job of keeping the front end planted down or should the +4 have no problem...
You can get a 520 chain anywhere. You have to break it to the right length for your setup.

I got my brakeline on Ebay from "quad parts guy" for around $37 shipped. Ive also bought arms and other things from him. Hes a fast shipper and no bs.

The longer the swingarm, the less chance of the front end coming up. Theres a certain point you want to comprimise though.....Too long will make for sloppy handling and longer turning radius.

As far as revalving and springing.....im doing ok with mine. I added a ton of preload, adjusted the compression and rebound, and it rides great in the sand. On hard packed whoops like on a track, it could use some finer tuning.

I run the +4" with Skat Trak 8 paddle haulers and can launch in 2nd without fear of the front end coming up.
I see no reason to go to a 6" unless your gonna drag on the pavement with a built motor.
 

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I went with +2 Because I trail ride more than ride hills
but it helped tremendously in both ..
It helps keep the front wheels down better than stock
with out sacrificing the handling
I think it handles better than stock
It even launchers off jumps better
I can't remember the # of links either
but I run the O ring chain from sidewinder
here's a shot ..

 
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