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I like to stick to the KISS theory at times like this. Keep It Simple Silly.

Out of all the things you have done, and I read this again mind you, you checked the spark plug but never put a NEW one in? Toss the old, try a new one. Might have wet plug because of no spark?

Shot in the dark, I know...but still
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Okay... so I got to thinking about that... I don't think it's (only) the plug, because I ran the test light from the plug wire to the head yesterday. The test light should have lit off if there was at least spark getting to the boot.

But Morph, you're right... I need to replace the spark plug because I have replaced EVERYTHING else... and a plug is 2 bucks and is probably due.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
More parts today... this time OEM stuff. Sure, I could have gone to the store and got hardware. But it was just easier this way and honestly not as expensive as I thought. Stuff like chain tensioner hardware and exhaust hardware... and a new pair of riding gloves (thats me thinking positively about being able to ride one day soon! Hahaha)


Annnnd.... a new spark plug. (It didn't work morph!) Hahahaha.

Also pics of the new brake parts and the grab bar.
 

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Good news is, that is starting to look great. Bad news is, spark plug didn't work. That sucks to hear, I was really hoping that was going to work. I think I have an owners manual I can dig through tomorrow to help wrap my head around the issue.
 

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Okay... so I got to thinking about that... I don't think it's (only) the plug, because I ran the test light from the plug wire to the head yesterday. The test light should have lit off if there was at least spark getting to the boot.

But Morph, you're right... I need to replace the spark plug because I have replaced EVERYTHING else... and a plug is 2 bucks and is probably due.
Hooking a test light to the spark plug high voltage wire could blow the light. Make sure the light works, then test for power on low voltage terminals on the coil, while cranking.

Check for and clean the ground cable from the frame to motor. If none, add one, even temporary jumpers cables for testing.

Keep the battery fully charged to at least 13.6 volts. Try jumping the battery from the wife's car, it needs to crank fast enough to produce a spark.
 

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Discussion Starter #27 (Edited)
Dez, I thought that too... I checked the test light multiple times, light was good to go. I did have the battery hooked up to another agm battery because I have heard that lithium batteries can cause electrical gremlins (you can barely see the jumpers in the pic above of the grab handle).

I ran a ground run from the battery to the case/frame at a motor mount. I will go ahead and another, it won't hurt anything and I have all the supplies to do it. Are there any of the electronics that require a dedicated ground?

Also, I have been cleaning the contacts for every electrical connection I come across.

The replacement relay is supposed to arrive today and the new stator tomorrow.
 

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Hopefully stator solves that issue. Fingers crossed...
 

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Hello Travis,

I also have a 05/06 350. The previous owner had significant starting issues with the ignition as well. He ended up replacing every component as you have. That green relay will not stop mine from firing up. It will fire with that relay plugged in or unplugged. Do you have the service manual? It has a pretty simple troubleshooting section for the plug not firing.

Attached is a pic of a 350 wiring schematic. I think all that green relay does is something to bring on the reverse light. I could be wrong, as I think last nights medication removed the faster moving brain cells though....
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Man oh man... I am trying to keep my cool.

Buddy comes over to "help" me with the bike. He is a decent shade tree mechanic but his reckless way about "trying" things to troubleshoot always annoyed me. WELL...

I get the new relay in the mail this afternoon... he says, well are you sure the old one is bad? I look over and he is hooking up wires to it to see if he can get it to trigger. Nada. So I run in to help wife with kids real quick... then I hear the bike trying to start... he pulled the starter solenoid off my motorcycle and wired it up in the bike. It doesnt start... but now the neutral light doesn't come on even when in neutral. Also my starter switch is permanently stuck "in"...

So I am trying to troubleshoot why the neutral light wont come on (the bulb is good, I swapped it with reverse and it lit up) And I am going to try to take apart the starter switch and kick my buddy in the [email protected]$ when I get a quick second.

...argh...
 

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Hello Travis,


I think all that green relay does is something to bring on the reverse light.
After a little closer looking, I think that relay tells the cdi that the bike is in neutral. I found that the reason my bike will turn over with that relay unhooked is that the previous guy wired the clutch switch so the cdi thinks the clutch is pulled in which trumps everything and allows the starter to start. Your neutral light might not be working now because your buddy fried that cut out relay which was probably working correctly before.
 

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Have you checked the polarity on the coil wires?

Disconnect the CDI and check the connector pins for corrosion or recessed wires not making contact.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Thanks for the info Jodiesel! I don't have the service manual yet, so I am just trying to think about it analytically. I am about to print that diagram and stick up on the wall in the garage! ha.

Okay, I cracked a beer and stopped to think about this... The indicator lights are merely "grounds" that fire light up the bulb... So I ran a test light from positive terminal on the battery and started poking and prodding around. It seems like the motor and the frame are grounded well. I took the wire off the reverse light indicator stud and touched it, test light lit up (but so does the red bulb). I then pulled the sky blue wire from the stud at the bottom left side of the crank case. Put the bike in neutral... nada. hrm. So I am wondering if the issue isnt that nice shiny new relay I purchased but in fact something inside the crank case. But I can still squeeze the clutch and get it to turn over, so figuring out the neutral safety will come eventually... After I am victorious on my hunt for the elusive "spark"...

So remember the crank switch?! Well, I was literally like... "F-it... I have UNNECESSARILY purchased a bunch of other parts... what's one more?!"... then I saw the 140 dollar price tag for the OEM. HA!

FYI, the whole switch comes apart relatively easy. My starter switch was stuck "in"... turns out there is a copper beehive spring inside. Well, I guess I thought somewhere along the way that if I push the button in HARDER it will make spark right!? No, it doesn't... all you do is break sh!t. So I grabbed a small pair of needle nose and fixed the spring, reassembly was 50 million times more difficult! It seems like small origami making fingers and cursing is a necessity. I finally coerced it back together, plugged it back in and the bike cranks.

So... in summary... I think I have something busted internally in the case... and I still don't have spark. On the bright side, I am pretty sure I am going to know these bikes better than the japanese assembly line robots by the time I get it running.

My plan is to swap the stator tomorrow, squeeze the clutch, hit the newly revamped button and hope she goes "vroom"

Rant over... my buddy went on a B-double-E-double-R-U-N.... BEER RUN. So I'm cracking another beer and calling it a night before I break anything else.

Expect more from the madhouse tomorrow!
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Ha... so the stator was SUPPOSED to arrive Sunday... nope. It came today. So I got right to work. Tech tip... tilt the bike on its side and nothing pours out the case when you pull the stator cover. Dewalt medium power impact and I had it swapped out in a few minutes.

Turned the key, hit the button and she fired right off first try! I need to tune the carb, but I am getting ahead of myself... I managed to get it warmed up and idle. BUT! To stay with the theme of the rebuild, I dropped it into to gear and NADA... Tire doesnt even try to spin. I put it up on stands, shifted it into gear, let go of clutch... still nothing. I disconnected the clutch linkage and still couldnt get the wheels to turn. I messed with the forward/reverse lever... I got frustrated and walked away...

Motor runs, that's a WIN for today.
 

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That's a big win! Wheels were not going to spin if the motor wasn't running anyway. Now just need to fugure out the issue there...

Have a beer, a well deserved beer.
 

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Sweet on the startup. When you let out on the clutch, is it killing the engine or just free wheeling? does it feel like the transmission shifter is doing anything (up and down). When you put it in reverse what happens? On my 350, I assume all of them, when you put it in reverse it will override whatever gear it was in.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
I only missed with it for a few minutes after realizing its a loud stationary bike. ha.

Let out on clutch, keeps running

I can feel it shifting through the gears

I am not confident I have figured out shifting into reverse (without the quad moving) Can you still row through the gears with the reverse lever back?
 

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Should be stopped with clutch in. Mine is kind of "clunky" shifting in and out of reverse. Sometimes clutching it kind of helps. If the bike is super hot it's near impossible to get in reverse on mine.
 
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