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Discussion Starter #61
Welp, the bearing came in yesterday... I should have snapped a pic. But the new one comes with the outer flange attached to it, so I didnt have to worry about sanding the bearing surface on the old one.

I had the bike back together in about 9 minutes... no BS. Starter gear on, magneto on, stator cover on, reconnect stator wires, take down off jack stands... Moment of truth... I turn the key, barely hit the button and she fired right off! Back in business!

It idles like absolute sh!t. It pops at idle and chokes when I go to give it gas. I am going to do a little research on tuning these carbs and get her running right... But bottom line... she is running again.

time for a beer.
 

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Well done on getting her running again, and keep us informed on how tour carb tuning goes, as I will be needing a few tips n tricks soon. I just drained the oil on my 350 other day to clean filter and see if I find any shiny bits of bearing in the oil.. as it has a knocking sound in bottom end, and yes I found plenty of shiny bits of derbi...?
It gives me a bit of confidence reading threads like yours tho so well done
 

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Discussion Starter #63
This carb is kicking my @$$. Funny, who would have thought that splitting the case and rebuilding a transmission is EASIER than tuning a carb.

Rejetted, messed with idle mix screw, etc... can't get it to run/idle right. I am chasing all kindsa problems... bowl drain pouring, bowl not leaking but fuel starved motor, too much fuel and shooting flames. On the bright side... I can take a carb off in less than 10 mins.

I realized that I am dealing with different issues simultaneously (drain pouring vs fuel starved)... so I bought a new knockoff carb and going to use parts off it to rebuild my stock carb. Its cheaper to buy a whole carb and pillage it for parts than to buy rebuild kits and floats etc separately.

In order to stay productive... I finished up reupholstering my seat.
 

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Seat looks great!
 

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Discussion Starter #66
Thanks Morph...


Well hell... Checked out new carb and glad I did, it had a 130 main... so I swapped over all the jets. Reinstall... NO LEAKS yayyyy! Swap out the petcock... no leaks! Yayyyy! Fuel filter installed... I hit the button... fires right off and idles.

Idles for about 5 mins. I push it outside, hop on and start my ride... hit 2nd gear go for third... she dies, I clutch it and button... get it to fire off again, pop a u turn, get back into the throttle, hit 3rd, dies... its a lil harder to start, but i get it going again... then trying to jump the curb and head in the garage... dies... had to roll it back inside. Go to start it again... nada.

Truthfully this sounds like a combo of issues to me, potentially an electronics issue and potentially a jetting issue. Anyone know what the stock size jets are? I think mine had a 145/70/25 jets in it.
 

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Discussion Starter #70
Soooo... tonight's update...

I walk downstairs into the garage and for giggles... hit the button... fires right off and idles beautifully. (remember it wouldn't even try to start last night when I called it quits). It runs great for a few mins, then cuts off. This time I kept my cool and tried to diagnose the issue. I pulled the plug and grounded it to the head, I barely had spark... so I swapped coils, it seemed to help. She still wouldn't start... I swapped the plug, no start... I pulled the plug, it was dry, no start... so I removed the gas cap to see if it was a venting issue, I also cracked the bowl drain... had gas in the bowl. I hit the button again it tried to fire, I pull the plug again, it looked wet. I couldn't figure it out, wife came home, needed to help unload groceries. After about 15 mins, I walk over and hit the button for giggles... and she fires right off and idles. WAIT WHAT!?

Go inside, eat dinner... hang out with kids... go downstairs... hit the button it fires off IMMEDIATELY.

Soooo... what would cause the motor to shut down once its warm?
 

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Valve adjustment??
 

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When I first brought my raptor 350 home I was having the same problem, i found a lot of shavings in the oil when i drained it, i think it is the crank bearing, and if it is maybe as the motor heats up because of the bad bearing causes it to seize, and then cut out, then making it almost imposible to start again. Leave it a while to cool down and starts again. Could this be likely or is it a long shot?
 

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I'm still lurking. Pull the fuel hose from the carb and check for constant flow into a container. If you can, attach a hose to the bottom of the carb bowl and do the same test. Check the float height and flow. Double check the gas cap vent. It sounds like the fuel is slowly filling the float bowl.
 

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I think Dez has it. When I first got my 350, it was pretty abused, so I did a lot of work to it. I tested the spark with the plug out and it doesn't have a very impressive spark. Not like a 660 does, that if you accidentally use your body as a ground when testing your in for more than just a jolt........
 

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This is one of THE BEST 350 threads I have read and I'm curious as to what she ended up looking and running like!! Any further developments?
 
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