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Discussion Starter #1
How would I go about doing this. My battery keeps going dead. Mainly just when the lights are on.



Stator or regulator?
 

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I am unique
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Check the output of the stator wires you were showing in your earlier picture, and also check how much your battery is being charged, read up in the service manual in the stickys for the specs.........
 

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Master of the Electron
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Stock lights?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Stock everything.



Like I said if I charge the battery fully it will be ok pretty much all day just for starting. But after I turn the lights on for about 30 minutes or so I guess it drains it to where it does not have enough to turn it over.


When I did turn on the lights it had been after running and starting it all day. So it's not like if I have a full charge and I turn on the light for 30 miuntes that it won't start anymore.


It's a gradual thing I guess is what i'm trying to say.
 

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Here is how you can test the regulator.
http://www.electrosport.com/technical-resources/library/diagnosis/pdf/diode-testing-guide.pdf

My stator went bad and I replaced it with an electrosport stator. It had about the highest wattage out put, 300w. It also raised my reverse rev limiter because it doesnt have the rotor rotation coils on the stator. I still have a rev limiter but it is around 5-6K. Kind of nice because you can re hook the wire up if you by passed it, and have your reverse light work again.
http://www.electrosport.com/products/product-detail-491.php
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks a lot. I looked at the info on how to test it but i'm pretty stupid when it comes to electrical stuff like that.


And I don't have a fluke


So. Do you know anyway to test it using a regular volt meter?
 

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Master of the Electron
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a Fluke is just a regular digital Volt/Ohm/Ammeter. If you have an equivalent meter, you have all you need to do the tests.
 

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So to test the regulator does the bike have to be running? Any info on how to test the stator?
You have to take the regulator off to test it. What your checking for is to make sure the diodes only flow electricity in one direction.
 

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Yes the bike has to be running, and you test the voltage out put of the stator in AC volts............
This test should be done with the rectifer and stator both disconnected and engine running..............
Testing the rectifier for shorted or open diodes in a system as the Raptor uses, I don't think is possible, since the individual components are insdie the unit.........
 

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I tested mine just like the link I posted.

josh
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I tested the stator today finially. I tested all three wires. First one I checked was around 3-7 volts at idle and went up to around 30 when reving it. The second one I tested was 1-2 at idle and went up to around 14 volts when I reved it. The third on did not seem to do anything.

This was done with the I'm guessing ground was unplugged (single black wire with connector) and the regulator plugged in as normal


Can anyone confirm that my findings are normal?

So i'm guessing that if they arte accurtate then it has to be the regulator. Right?
 

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I tested the stator today finially. I tested all three wires. First one I checked was around 3-7 volts at idle and went up to around 30 when reving it. The second one I tested was 1-2 at idle and went up to around 14 volts when I reved it. The third on did not seem to do anything.

This was done with the I'm guessing ground was unplugged (single black wire with connector) and the regulator plugged in as normal


Can anyone confirm that my findings are normal?

So i'm guessing that if they arte accurtate then it has to be the regulator. Right?
So you hooked one of the meters wires to the engine ground or engine frame and then tried all three wires, I believe they are white coming from the stator and got three different readings ranging in range from 1-7 at idle to 0 -14 -30 when reving it up some, did you have the stator unplugged when doing this, meaning the stator was not hooked to the voltage regulator, or was it hooked to the bikes electrical system.........
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Right,I used the frame for a ground. The stator was unplugged all together. The main 3 wire plug and also the single black wire.
 

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Right,I used the frame for a ground. The stator was unplugged all together. The main 3 wire plug and also the single black wire.
To me all three wires should produce the same type of voltage, it is similiar to an alternator in that respect, it has three phases all contributing to the charging system equally.

If you have an ommeter, check the resistance between all three wires, check two at a time, and also check each one of them to ground and post your findings.........
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I ohmed them out one at a time with the ignition off and the quad not runnning and only got a reading from one of the wires. I did them two at a time and got nothing from all of them.



Any ideas?
 

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I ohmed them out one at a time with the ignition off and the quad not runnning and only got a reading from one of the wires. I did them two at a time and got nothing from all of them.



Any ideas?
My idea is the stator is no good.........
All three wires should be the same........
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Ok. I'll wait and see if anyone else has any other ideas. I really appreciate you tgiving me a hand with htis. I just hated to but a 150.00 stator if this one was fine ya know?
 

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Master of the Electron
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You need to measure the AC voltage generated between pairings of disconnected white wires, 3 measurements total. All measurements should be close - and somewhere between 15 and 20VAC when revving.

Measure resistance between the same disconnected pairings with the engine off. Compare to manual's test measurement. They should all be about the same. Then measure resistance from each to ground. If any of them show any significant resistance to ground (less than say, 10k ohm when disconnected) there is a problem.
 
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