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Discussion Starter #1
i pulled my baffle, removed the air box lid, did the clear tube method, and put a dyno jet kit in my 660. i believe i used a 146 and 148 dynojet but will have to double check.

the quad seems to have a lot better throttle response and more pull in the mid range but didnt gain any top end.

should i try jetting down one size or am i getting the results i should from these mods.

my top end is about 74mph and was able to hit at least that before these mods.
 

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Did you mod the speed sensor. I don't know what speed it cut the throttle at but it might make a difference.
 

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Master of the Electron
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Speed sensor retards timing so you can't go above 75mph... if you're hitting this limit, it is the speed sensor.

Modding it is not difficult, but requires removing the clutch side cover. You can simply unplug it, but will get an annoying flashing reverse light when you ride... and no one has been able to tell for sure whether this causes any other performance (timing from the CDI) issues - but we think not.
 

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i pulled my baffle, removed the air box lid, did the clear tube method, and put a dyno jet kit in my 660. i believe i used a 146 and 148 dynojet but will have to double check.

the quad seems to have a lot better throttle response and more pull in the mid range but didnt gain any top end.

should i try jetting down one size or am i getting the results i should from these mods.

my top end is about 74mph and was able to hit at least that before these mods.
It is a bit of work but the speed sensor can be modfied by removing the clutch cover and the reluctor wheel and remove half of the teeth from the reluctor wheel........:D
 

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Discussion Starter #6
74 mph y would you want to go any faster your asking for trouble man
i have a need for speed....lol
seriously though i just wanted to make sure i didnt do something wrong when i modded.
do most regear after modding then or do they disconnect speed sensor or is that what a rev box is for?
it sure seems to make 4th and 5th gear very lame the way it is now.
 

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Master of the Electron
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I run a 43 rear sprocket because I'm a much bigger fan of low end torque than I am of high end speed... so my top is limited to about 70... you can do the opposite - go to a 14 front or 36-37 rear sprocket and get some more top end (as long as the engine has the power to overcome the additional drag, which is a function of velocity CUBED).

Some aftermarket CDI's ignore the speed sensor, some do not, if I recall. I run stock, so can't tell you which ones do what. Perhaps those with aftermarket CDI's can chime in here?
 

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Rev boxes will most likely affect the RPM of the engine. Not sure if they do for the output shaft but you could always do this to your inductor wheel on the inside. As mentioned before, half of the teeth are cut off. I am a speed freak like you and like to have those fast pulls when zipping from one field to another. Problem is the tires always scare me as much faster they shake and if bad enough could cause some serious problems.

I know my brother's built banshee can pull 90 easy though.... would hate to get left behind!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
my reverse light is disconnected and i plan on gearing down when its time to change gears but as of now would it be best just to disconnect wire to sensor or does it need to be grounded like the 700 rappy. just seems silly to go thru the trouble of cuttin teeth off and opening case, if all that needs to be done is disconnect a wire.
 

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Master of the Electron
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The speed sensor has three short wires that lead to a connector... just try unplugging the connector. Let me know what the results are.

What do you mean 'my reverse light is disconnected'? If you have grounded the reverse switch lead to eliminate the reverse RPM limiter, this did not disconnect the reverse light from the CDI - it will still blink, unless you have removed the bulb or cut the wired between CDI and light.
 

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Master of the Electron
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Sorry, but that is backwards... with the reverse switch wire grounded the reverse light should be permanantly OFF...

Put the bulb back in, cut and ground the green/white wire (CDI side) close to the CDI... the light better go out, or the reverse limiter is on full time OR is this an 01 (or aftermarket CDI)? Early 01's didn't have the limiter.
 

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I did the inductor wheel mod because someone told me that unplugging it killed their performance. Granted I never tried it but based my decision simply off others suggestions but they said that Yamaha worked in a safety into the CDI that if the sensor was unplugged it wouldn't work top notch.
 

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I did the inductor wheel mod because someone told me that unplugging it killed their performance. Granted I never tried it but based my decision simply off others suggestions but they said that Yamaha worked in a safety into the CDI that if the sensor was unplugged it wouldn't work top notch.
I tried to unplug the sensor and it kills the performance. We had a spare sensor so installed it and just let it hang on the bike for one race and the sensor was over ridden, there must be a circuit in the sensor that must be completed...........
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Sorry, but that is backwards... with the reverse switch wire grounded the reverse light should be permanantly OFF...

Put the bulb back in, cut and ground the green/white wire (CDI side) close to the CDI... the light better go out, or the reverse limiter is on full time OR is this an 01 (or aftermarket CDI)? Early 01's didn't have the limiter.
yes u are correct the light is off, that is what i had done, was getting it confused with my snowmobile.

and special props to you and willy, u 2 are quad savers on this sight, always there to help out,...ty

i will take a look at it and see if messin with the inductor wheel is somethin i want to tackle.

is that on the left or right side of quad and any more pics.
 

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yes u are correct the light is off, that is what i had done, was getting it confused with my snowmobile.

and special props to you and willy, u 2 are quad savers on this sight, always there to help out,...ty

i will take a look at it and see if messin with the inductor wheel is somethin i want to tackle.

is that on the left or right side of quad and any more pics.

It is on the right side behind and to the rear of the clutch assembly, I just grind all the teeth of except two, 180 degrees apart, much easier then removing every second tooth...........:D
 

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I did every second tooth because in theory it should allow your output shaft to spin twice as fast before killing your engine. With a 4" angle grinder it doesn't take that long to do every other. I thought it was actually faster than taking the time to do all of them but 2.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
is there a link of how to and what needs to be done to open up case, im assuming oil needs to be drained and some coolant will be lost.

when i get a chance ill do a search, im sure there is somethin on here or elsewhere on the net. ty max that is probly what i will do.
 

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is there a link of how to and what needs to be done to open up case, im assuming oil needs to be drained and some coolant will be lost.

when i get a chance ill do a search, im sure there is somethin on here or elsewhere on the net. ty max that is probly what i will do.
No need to drain oil or coolant, just tip the bike onto its left side and remove the clutch cover from the right side, you will see the small reluctor wheel just below the sensor at the rear, behind the clutch basket.............
 
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