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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I was thinking about switching over from the 660 club to the 700. I originally didn't want to go from carbs to FI but am thinking that to get the same power, a 700 will be a much nicer/newer platform.

Are the 700's pretty easy to hit 60-70hp with? I was thinking if I got one that I would probably do a ported head, stroker, big bore cylinder, cam, duals, and a fuel controller. Is there anything else I would need? Looking for a reliable build that will outrun 450's but have smooth power delivery and throttle response.

Is the FI something that I would be able to tune with a fuel controller or do I need to take it to someone to put on the dyno? BTW- I have an A/F ratio meter.
 

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So I was thinking about switching over from the 660 club to the 700. I originally didn't want to go from carbs to FI but am thinking that to get the same power, a 700 will be a much nicer/newer platform.

Are the 700's pretty easy to hit 60-70hp with? I was thinking if I got one that I would probably do a ported head, stroker, big bore cylinder, cam, duals, and a fuel controller. Is there anything else I would need? Looking for a reliable build that will outrun 450's but have smooth power delivery and throttle response.

Is the FI something that I would be able to tune with a fuel controller or do I need to take it to someone to put on the dyno? BTW- I have an A/F ratio meter.
You can go 70 mph with a stock 700 depending on ur weight...u can also outrun 450's with a stock 700...u can tune the bike with the efi controller and laptop but the dyno is definitely the route to go for the most hp and efficiency of the motoe or you can find someone who has the same mods as u and have them send u their map and u can upload it...
 

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I think he said 70 hp.. With all of that you should be over 70hp, depending on the combo and who does the work.. I would keep it stock bore and stroke, run a +2 head with a +3 or 54mm Tb. High compression, HDD5050, duals and an ignition and you should be at your goal..
 

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I don't think, from Max's other thread, that he'd be happy with the power delivery of the HD5050 and a 54mm tb on a sb/ss. Sure they make lots of power, but not the kind I think he wants. The ignition for instance, increases top end over the same build without. But from the dyno sheets I've seen DL post it doesn't do a whole lot to help the lower rpms ranges max seems to prefer to ride in.

Max you can make more hp with a 700, and you can do it for around the same build cost as the 660 if you don't get too exotic. 70hp on a 700 is more reliable than 70hp on a 660, and you have a shot at making it in the rpm range you want instead of having to go all top end to get there. The 700 is a newer platform sure, but it's already a 6 year old platform based off the suspension geometry of the 8 year old YFZ450 so each day that passes brings us closer to a refresh or redesign, though on the bright side that means the aftermarket is starting to mature and you don't have to worry about your new aftermarket parts being outdated before you get your engine build finished. The EFI is nice from a maintenance standpoint (compared to carbs there really isn't much). Sure you can tune it yourself, won't be as dead on as a dyno but tuning our own carbs never is either.
 

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Are ya giving up on the 3 pluger or just adding another to the garage?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Banshee2Raptor - I was thinking of parting out my entire 660. Nothing is for sure yet but I'm considering the other options. I'll let you know for sure if I get rid of the head and FCR's

MadDog - As far as the suspension, the 700 has to be much better than my 660 suspension.

Why would you stay with stock stroke? What if I went to a stroker and stock bore? Any idea how much power I would be pushing with my original setup?

BTW - I really like to stunt in the 2500-5000rpm range but cruise in the 4000-6500 range. This is where I would like the most throttle response and good torque.
 

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Banshee2Raptor - I was thinking of parting out my entire 660. Nothing is for sure yet but I'm considering the other options. I'll let you know for sure if I get rid of the head and FCR's

MadDog - As far as the suspension, the 700 has to be much better than my 660 suspension.

Why would you stay with stock stroke? What if I went to a stroker and stock bore? Any idea how much power I would be pushing with my original setup?

BTW - I really like to stunt in the 2500-5000rpm range but cruise in the 4000-6500 range. This is where I would like the most throttle response and good torque.
OK, let me no. I realy hope ya keep it, the 3 pluger is a rare build.
Good luck in whatever you deside to do.
 

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A three plug would not last long if op is to part out! I believe it would be a bidding war!
 

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Well I will also be having a 3 plug HV ported head up for save to very soon! Think I am moving in on a 700:D
 

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Sry to hear that guys. I dont think I could get rid of my Willykiller 3 pluger.the damn thing runs so frigen strong.
 

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Banshee2Raptor - I was thinking of parting out my entire 660. Nothing is for sure yet but I'm considering the other options. I'll let you know for sure if I get rid of the head and FCR's

MadDog - As far as the suspension, the 700 has to be much better than my 660 suspension.

Why would you stay with stock stroke? What if I went to a stroker and stock bore? Any idea how much power I would be pushing with my original setup?

BTW - I really like to stunt in the 2500-5000rpm range but cruise in the 4000-6500 range. This is where I would like the most throttle response and good torque.

Max if you went +5 stroker and SB with a +1 head, FCI you should be around 70hp and 52-53tq. Very reliable build with extremely smooth power. Look up Spartan727's build thread or pm him. :thumbsup:
 

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I think he said 70 hp.. With all of that you should be over 70hp, depending on the combo and who does the work.. I would keep it stock bore and stroke, run a +2 head with a +3 or 54mm Tb. High compression, HDD5050, duals and an ignition and you should be at your goal..
Ur right he did..I just got home from work and was tired...btw to the op ur gonna love the u 700... big upgrade over the 660...
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Yeah. I got to work on a 700 this summer and it seemed like the design is much more simple and easy to work on and can produce good power while still being reliable. Not to mention that the suspension is a major upgrade.

I figure if I can pick up a 700 for the $2000 range (which I have seen a few recently) then I could build on that will be pretty reliable for not to much money.
 

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I dont know what RPM range you are looking to ride in, but the 5050 cam is great for overall power and torque throught the curve. Your going to loose a few up top compared to the Web4, but if Mad Dog said your not looking to carry the power through the higher RPM range. The Web 4 wouldn't make sense for you either. Unless your in the upper rpm range 90% of the time, IMO the 5050 is the best cam out. I wasn't necessarily saying to run the 54mm tb on a SB/SS, even though it sounded that way. I would keep it stock stroke until it was needed to be changed, but I also would not bore without the stroke. You can make great power with a SB/SS build with amazing reliabilty. But if you are just set on going that route, the stroke will give you the torque you are looking for.. A good 727 stroke build or 770 stroke+bore build will both net good numbers. Good luck in which ever route you choose.
 

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3 plug heads coming up f/s?
Built by who & what porting?

One of those might just finnish my 719 build off nicely............
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I'm not sure yet whether or not I'm going to be parting the 660. The 3 plug head was done by willykiller with Barker HV porting. I still have to consider a lot of thing before I part the bike I have right now.

What numbers would I be able to hit with the 700 sb/ss? Why would I not want to stroke it without boring it? Would a bore/stroke kit be pretty reliable still?
 

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70-75 can be hit on SB/SS depending on compression and the fuel being ran. I didn't say you wouldn't want to bore it without stroke, that's just my opinion.. I don't see the 1-2hp gain for a big bore kit being worth it unless its supported by a crank that will help the rev and torque. But again that's just me. There are plenty of 770-778 builds that run great and last a long time.
 

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Mine is sb/ss. I am running barker duels, trinity intake w/K&N, PCIII, 14:1 CP piston, Bo's trex II ported head, +3mm throttle body, and a webb 4 cam and hit 72HP on the dyno at Little Sahara.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
MelonFarmer - I think I misunderstood you a couple posts back. I thought you meant don't stroke it without boring it too...when you actually meant it the other way around.

If I were to bore it I would definitely stroke it too. But on a different note I would maybe keep the bore the same if I did stroke the engine.
 
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