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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just purchased a 06 raptor 700 in june. And I picked up a used 04 raptor 350 for the wife. I got the extended maintence plan for mine. When should I get the valves adjusted. On average how much does it cost; Im a new member but have been coming to this site for a while.
 

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i need to do mine also. from what ive been told the first tune up is at 10 hrs. this is new oil and filter and valve adjust. my dealer is charging 177.00 to do both and grease it and wash..
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks, We bought the wife a 350 used and I dont think the valves have been adjusted yet so Ill bring it in next week and get both done
.
 

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I finally got over 20 hrs on my 07' GYTR. I've already changed the oil/filter at approx. 16 hrs. and now need to do the valves. From looking at the maint. manual, it doesn't look all that bad to do yourself. I will attempt this this coming weekend and post my results. Oh yea, I've heard that buying the cheesy tool helps so I went down to the local Yam dealer and bought one. It's square like 3-4mm and it didn't cost that much to boot.
 

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If you do it yourself i was told(by dealer) it voids the warrenty. Yamaha will not back up a non certified yamaha mechanic putting their hands in the motor. FYI
 

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Rappys said:
If you do it yourself i was told(by dealer) it voids the warrenty. Yamaha will not back up a non certified yamaha mechanic putting their hands in the motor. FYI
Hmmm, I've opted for the extended warranty too. I'm pretty sure that it didn't state that in the warranty though, I'll check... I doubt that your dealer was telling you the truth. For one, they have to prove beyond the shadow of doubt that you cause whatever the problem was before they can deny you your warranty claim. Adjusting the valves from just reading the maintenance service book was only two pages, not that difficult if you are somewhat mechanically inclined. Check out the "Magnusson Moss Warranty Act" which was passed as law for the benefit of consumer protection against this very thing.
Kam
 

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Well maybe i will let them do the first one then, after that i guess I will do them.
 

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who ever does one, can you do a write up on it? and we can make it a sticky.. please, i read the manual last night,and it still seems a little confusing to me..but maybe it's just me, i just want to make sure i do it 100% right the first time...
 

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yeah, it's not that i don't think i can do it, it's just a little intimidating and something that i'm sure after the 1st time doing it will be easy as pie,. but that 1st time sucks.....i don't wanna hurt my baby!!! :(
 

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Guys, checking your valves is EASY. Adjusting the valves on a Raptor is also well within what any of you guys should be able to do. We all have access to the service manual and it lays out the fairly straight-forward process nicely.

Everyone that rides should be able to change their own oil, adjust chain, check valves etc.

We have the old-school valve setup, very fast and easy system to adjust valves with. The 4-fiddy motor uses a shim-under-bucket setup. Those guys have to remove the camshafts and find the right size shim to put the valve clearances in spec. All we need is simple tools with no complicated removal of anything.

Don't be afraid guys, you can do it!
 

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OK, TDC on compression stroke is when all valves are closed and piston is up. On a car you can just put your finger over the spark plug hole while you spin the crank with a wrench on the crankshaft pulley. How do you guys do it on these things? I just picked up a used rappy and want to go over it real well and I don't want to pay the dealer close to $200 to do something I can do myself. Btw, this forum is great and the service manual download was a nice touch.

Thanks
 

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Man, I just did mine last week. If I would of known, I would of taken pictures of the whole process and posted it. I do recommend the tappet tool though, it makes it allot easier and you won't F-up the small square head. I bought one at my local dealer and it was less than $20 bucks. My valves after 35 hours of riding were in towards the tight end of the band so they didn't need adjusting yet. I do remember I couldn't find a 15-17 mm allen wrench for the cover on the crank, I ended up using a 9/16" allen and grinding down the sides until it fit properly. Not much grinding, it comes close to 9/16"... Oh yea, make sure that your feeler gauge is thin enough to accomodate 0.0035 of an inch and up. When I checked mine, the smallest gauge I had was 0.0005 inch but since it wouldn't even go in, I left it alone.
Kam
 

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I rechecked mine againa few weeks ago And It is very easy. With the service manual it shows how to find TDC and how to check the valves. Access to the valves is easy through the two access covers on the top. I've got close to 500 hrs on my rappy and I was still well within tolerance.
 

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GuamRaptor700 said:
I've got close to 500 hrs on my rappy and I was still well within tolerance.
Wow, that's incredible! Usually with this kind of valve setup they need a little more adjustment than the shim-under-bucket setup. Good to hear.

Are you riding up on the rev limiter a lot? From what I've seen over the last 6-7 years is the guys that don't bang their stuff off the limiter all the time tend to have terrific results.
 

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Yea i keep the speed sensor plugged in except for drag racing and I spent most of my riding playing in the dunes and kept it running mid powerband most of the time. Keep the filter clean, fresh plugs and lots of oil changes. If I put alot of dune hours on it over the weekend I would flush the oil and not just change it.
 

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rich807 said:
GuamRaptor700 said:
I've got close to 500 hrs on my rappy and I was still well within tolerance.
Wow, that's incredible! Usually with this kind of valve setup they need a little more adjustment than the shim-under-bucket setup. Good to hear.

Are you riding up on the rev limiter a lot? From what I've seen over the last 6-7 years is the guys that don't bang their stuff off the limiter all the time tend to have terrific results.


Next time you have your valve covers off look way back at the camshaft end of the rocker arm, you will see a nice roller wheel on it, just like the roller wheel on the bottom of an automotive roller lifter. This design once it's been re adjusted after initial break in will stay in tolerance much better than a non roller type. That's why you can run so many hours and still be in tolerance. After my inital break in and adjustment mine are staying right where I set them and I'm at 200 hrs or more. Here's a blow up of the rocker arm assy and valve train.




Take note of the roller wheels on the camshaft side of the rocker arm.


Edited for page change in online catolog
 

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Yeah that's good stuff, I'm really stoked to hear those reports.

I'm a big fan of the YZF/YFZ motor and the shim-under-bucket design, mainly because it basically never needed adjusting (had to adjust only 1 intake valve in 3 years when I had my YZ426). It is a royal PITA to put one back in tolerance once you have a valve go out of tolerance though. Need a shim chart, need to go buy a shim you need, not to mention having to pull the camshaft(s).

Sounds like this rappy setup kicks ass....again, GREAT to hear.

:thumbsup:
 

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Which is the nessacary tool?

Tappet Adjusting Tool - 90890-01311
or
Valve Adjuster 3mm & 4mm - YM-08035-A
 
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