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Discussion Starter #1
im trying to figure out this center intake mod needed for stage 2 and kibbles..Ive measured over and over and seem to be getting 10.4s to 10.5s clearance between the valve seal and the retainer. the lift is 10.65 so i know i need to mod it. my question is whats the best way to go about it. From what im reading, i hear people saying to take off the same amount off the bottom of the seal also.. ??? I thought that the guide would have to be removed from the head and it taken off the bottom (or top,whatever way you want to look at it) if taken off the stem end, the groove will still be in the same place. I dont understand how that will alow the seal to sit lower. maybe im over thinking it but i dont see that working. if taken off the seal end of the guide, will the seal actually still be in the groove and stay in place? Is there enough play in the groove to allow it to move down? if so how do you take 1mm off evenly? Im trying not to take it to the shop to have this done. but its looking like i might have to. Still, i can see them telling me i need a new valve guide to mod befor installing it.. If any of you guys have done this yourselves or know exactly how someone else did please help.. this is driving me nutts !!!!!!
 

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A valve guid cutter works good. You just put it in a drill press. It has a pilot shaft the same size as the valve stem and it cuts it down.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Of course! there is always a special tool... so the cutter shortens and puts the bevel back too? Thats not something i have in the toolbox. Guess ill be taking it to the machine shop then.. still not sure about the groove thing but whatever works. Id like to see it in action. I hate not knowing how to do something. Even more i hate paying someone who does! Thanks
 

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Of course! there is always a special tool... so the cutter shortens and puts the bevel back too? Thats not something i have in the toolbox. Guess ill be taking it to the machine shop then.. still not sure about the groove thing but whatever works. Id like to see it in action. I hate not knowing how to do something. Even more i hate paying someone who does! Thanks
I have on several occassions just shortened the bottom of the valve seal and this gives sufficient clearance, use a belt sander and carefully take the bottom of the seal down evenly about .050"............
Just watch your fingers using this process...........
 

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Web cams sells 3 short intake vale seals. I am not for sure how much shorter they are though.
 

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I just used a dremel to take the valve guides down. Then I also took the valve seals down too. This was done with the head off so I could clean up the dust/material removed.

With the valves properly set, I removed the valve springs and reinstalled the top spring cap+shims. Installing the valve cover and setting the head on its side, I spun the cam completely over. With the head on its side and springs removed, the valves will stay in the furthest open position, so as to check the clearance between the bottom of the retainer and the seal. I think there was supposed to be a minimum of .020" I did this for each valve seal, adjusting the seals and guides as needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I took it to a machine shop this morning and the guy didnt have a guide trimmer small enough. He called around and noone in town had one. wth? We got out a tool magazine and found one. I ordered it over the phone, should be here by monday. It was ab out 40bucks. goes in a drill and has a pilot that goes inside the guide to keep the cut straight. Apparently a common tool that is new to me. Where I work we replace oem stuff and never do anything cool... My wiseco top end kit came with new seals so im going to sand them down to fit. Ill let ya know how it goes. This is the only thing left to finish my engine. I got my 450 shocks in today and am going to do the rear link mod as well this weekend. I found a write up on here that was helpful. sholdnt be that bad. and after several hours of the dremel, I can see myself in my exhaust ports ! Thanks for all the info.
 

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450 shocks and real link mod are amazingly worthwhile. The exhaust ports... just don't go too crazy. I did the rear link mod and it really lowered alot!
 
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