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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
If you insall a new cam in your 660 be aware that the decompression mechanism must be instaled the right way. The big dot on the cam must line up with the small dot on the decompression mechanism's cam. Or you will get a very noticeable clack/tick. I had it in 180 degrees off and it took me two days worth of research to find the problem. I found one post on it out of countless forums and thought that I would note it here.

The decomp mechanism taps one exaust rockerarm half way through the cycle and after start up the weights on the cam sprocket swing out and turn the decomp cam 1/4 turn. this allows a little spring loaded nipple to retract so that it does not tap the rockerarm during normal operation.

So if you have an abnormal tick(besides the extra noise of the high lift cam) double check the decompression cam. Just trying to ease the flustration.......


PS leave out the pin from your original cam it blocks the only two oil passage ways and hot cams does not tell you this. The pin runs the tachometer on the european street bike that shares this motor. ;) :eek:
 

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Welcome to the forum.
Good info, you wouldn't know what the european version bike is called, would you?
It great when someone can write in complete sentences and use puncuation, so much easier to read.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Its the szr 660 Italian made but the motor has all the same specs. Even the 9:1 compression. A little week for a supermoto bike don't ya think?
PS yep I'm new and my wife's a teacher so puncuation and all..... but Ive searched this site for about 3 months now for info and advise! :grin_nod:
 

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There have been a few bikes that use the 660 powerplant, XTZ 660, and MZ 660 and SDZ 660 and probably some others.

Pic of '99 XTZ from the web


The most recent updated version of the XT660 line (2004 and newer I think) was also the donor for the 700R's new motor albiet without the displacement bump.

 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
04 660, 11:1 wiseco, stage 1 hotcam, K&N pro design adapter no lid, Ported polished, Kimble white valves, white bros exaust, a 41 tooth rear sprocket and Kenda Klaws, still in jetting phase but runs strong. What bout you firstraptor anything good?
 

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The dreaded 01, bought it before I knew about the trans "issue".
Did the motor over the winter, basically saved the cases. 11:1 wiseco 673, stg2 cam, gtyr clutch, trans updated, motor bearings, hotrods crank and some light polishing in the ports.
A boat load in the suspension, thats probably the best spent cash so far.
The frame, motor cases and plastics are about all that remains of what I bought originally.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
:eek: wow thats alot more than mine, but I was looking at elkas....and my wallet is way to lean for the suspention I want! What elevation are you at? Does your stage 2 cam make alot of valvetrain noise?
 

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The mods I can do are directly related to the fact I'm not married. So long as the bill collectors are semisatisfied I'm happy.
A number of people are using the yfz450 front shocks and all report good results. The yfz forums and e-bay ae a good source if your looking.
The stg2 makes more noise than the stock but it's tough to hear over the exhaust. There is a noticable clicking but you need to listen for it.
Central Wisconsin is about 600ft.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
My stage one is noticable but I am also listning to it due to break in! I'm not too keen on the 450 shocks although they are an upgrade. I just want stuff valved for me and the way I ride, and elka is suposed to do that so I think I'll wait. Shocks would be nice!
 

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I just installed a stage 1 cam 2days ago and im getting a ticking noise is that normal?Cause i have spent countless hours checking my valves and rechecking them,even went out today in bought a set of motion pro feeler guages.I was thinking about tearing it apart again in rechecking the decompression thingy.My quad fires right up so I know i did something right.
 

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oua660 said:
If you insall a new cam in your 660 be aware that the decompression mechanism must be instaled the right way. The big dot on the cam must line up with the small dot on the decompression mechanism's cam. Or you will get a very noticeable clack/tick. I had it in 180 degrees off and it took me two days worth of research to find the problem. I found one post on it out of countless forums and thought that I would note it here.

The decomp mechanism taps one exaust rockerarm half way through the cycle and after start up the weights on the cam sprocket swing out and turn the decomp cam 1/4 turn. this allows a little spring loaded nipple to retract so that it does not tap the rockerarm during normal operation.

So if you have an abnormal tick(besides the extra noise of the high lift cam) double check the decompression cam. Just trying to ease the flustration.......


PS leave out the pin from your original cam it blocks the only two oil passage ways and hot cams does not tell you this. The pin runs the tachometer on the european street bike that shares this motor. ;) :eek:
Just wanted to let you know thanks for the heads up.I also had a noise that sounded like a valve ticking took it apart today and sure enough it was the decompression thingy. I fixed it and now it sounds like it should no more ticking.
 

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thanks oua660 you saved my bike,i didnt know what to do with it and beside the noise ,it gave me back-fire probleme and also idle probleme i couldnt jet it right because it keeps one of the exaust valve open,know that i lined up the 2 dots ,all of my probleme disapered,today im going to p-up my dynojet carb kit that i ordered,i cant wait to go and try it out ,its like i bought a new machine.thanks again
 

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Use white out to mark things a few times on anything you take apart. In this case the just paint the chain and gear, that way you know you put it back the same way it cam off.
 

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If its not lined-up ,yes,cause one of the exaust valve stays open(not s=all the way,but still)wich means less compression i havent rejet it yet and like i said i saw a big difference , :grin_nod:
 

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Anybody have a pic of this little pin thing? I did mine so long ago I'm not sure I remember what it was. I seem to remember a little pin that I almost lost with a spring with it and want to know if that is it. Will this mess up my quad? I've had it in there now for about 3 years. I did this project with a friend that is a mechanic that is certified and his job is to diagnose what others can't seem to find. So I'm pretty sure he can handle a cam.
 

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Some of the alignment dots are covered up by those sheetmetal "weight retainers" when you have it all together if I remember right. Makes it kinda hard to get everything lined up. I usually leave the retainers off until I get all the dots lined up and then put 'em back on.

Question on the pin to leave out mentioned in the first post. Is this the pin at the end, (right side of the bike, farthest from the timing chain), of the cam? Or is there another pin I can't remember?

Also mentioned, was that this pin drives the tach on the euro bikes. Interesting..... :thumbsup: I'm wondering if a person could aquire the rest of the tach and drive if it could be swapped onto a Rappy!

As far as pics, I have 2 motors out right now on the bench. I'll see what I can do. :thumbsup:
 

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oua660 said:
... PS leave out the pin from your original cam it blocks the only two oil passage ways and hot cams does not tell you this. The pin runs the tachometer on the european street bike that shares this motor. ;) :eek:
How important is it to leave that out? I put mine in the hotcam. I could not figure out what it did, and it was a PITA to swap to the new cam, but I made it happen. Unless its gonna hurt the motor, i'm leaving it in there.
 
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