I installed the Trail Tech Vapor with the billet mount the DRW belly skid and case saver and had the ITP 22” rear tires installed on my new 2022.
Great fun machines. Picked up a 22 a couple months ago and it's been fun. The one con I see is having a hard time finding one for a reasonable price that does not already have a deposit on it for someone else. The pros are it's brand new so you don't get any previous owner surprises and if you take care of it it'll last a long time. Parts are readily available and also reasonable considering most other hobbies get much more expensive.I've been thinking of buying a 2022! What do you think of it? Is it good? Pros and cons maybe?
It’s raw inside and the frame does have some drains in it.![]()
I have the week off between Christmas & New Years. I decided it’s the perfect time for a frame off restorationI’m going to have gussets welded in behind the upper front shock mounts and the cheesy bumper mounts beefed up. Then everything powder coated. Also have a new Sparks exhaust for it when it goes back together
Does Yamaha have a way of coating the inside of the frame tubes from the factory? I’m worried the welding will cause rust on the inside down the line. I’ve seen old dirt bikes where the frames rusted out from the inside, I want to avoid that
Any thoughts?
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You Can double the bearings if you want, but they aren't needed, the bushings work well.![]()
The chain side bushing in my swingarm was so shot that it actually trashed the swingarm. The hole isn’t round anymore, it’s oblong. This is a pic of a good used one I picked up. I noticed that there is a needle bearing type bushing on the outer side on each side, and a plastic bushing on the inner side on each side. I would think it would be a lot more robust to replace the plastic bushings with the roller bearing type bushings. Has anyone done this?
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I’ve had several apart without issue. You end up with a much better powder job if you pull it apart. Buy the correct socket, heat the bolts up with torch, tap on the socket in the bolt, then try threading them out.![]()
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Got the frame back from the fab shop all beefed up. Now it’s off to sand blast & powder
Is it a bad idea to separate the mid frame from the main frame? I don’t want to pull the aluminum threads out of the mid frame on the bottom bolts near the foot pegs
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Oddly enough the Lowe’s brand one seems to be the strongest without buying like snap-on or mac matco whatever, so if you end up breaking it (bit breaks) might try the Lowe’s one. Have gone through a few of them over the years. The key is heat, hit it a few times, then be smooth and firm when you first start to loosen them. Penetrating oil didn’t seem to matter.Sounds good, I’ll give it a go tonight. Surprisingly, Home Depot had the correct tamper proof t50
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