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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok so i have a stock raptor 700. but i'm putting together parts list for a build. I'm just wanting a good reliable running machine. it will see some dirt trails along with some sand and a little hillshooting.

I know what a big bore is and i know that is a option but also somebody said something about a stock bore build?

So what is a stock bore build?

Is it higher compression on a stock sleeve?

Or is it a different stroke on a stock bore size?

thanks for a information. I'm new to modding quad's. im not trying to out run everything out there. i just want something that is going to run good and RELIABLE is the most important thing to me.

this will just be a weekend toy. i weight about 165lbs so i dont need a monster motor build.
 

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OEM bore (102mm) and stock stroke (usually stock crankshaft) leaving stock displacement (686cc).

You throw in a high compression piston, some port work and a camshaft and that's the basis for a "stock bore build". The gist is that you do the work you'd normally do without increasing displacement.

A budget might help others discern how extreme you should or shouldn't get with this build, and assist them with making suggestions.
 

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stock bore size is 102mm u can go from anything from 105mm 105.5 up to 108mm i believe.

and for the most part its just staying with the stock bore 102mm.

as you read threads youll see this saying from time to time

Cheap, Fast, Reliable. U can only pick two.

most common are the big 3 Intake,Exhaust, Programmer. but u really dont wake it up untill u add the cam and piston.

If its just trail riding and not alot of racing i would just do the big 5.
 

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if that is your quad in your sig then i would definatly get rid of the rear tires! they suck so bad. You wont know what im saying untill u replace them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
OEM bore (102mm) and stock stroke (usually stock crankshaft) leaving stock displacement (686cc).

You throw in a high compression piston, some port work and a camshaft and that's the basis for a "stock bore build". The gist is that you do the work you'd normally do without increasing displacement.

A budget might help others discern how extreme you should or shouldn't get with this build, and assist them with making suggestions.
Thanks for clearing that up. as for the budget i'm not sure. I know this stuff isn't cheap. At this point i have about 4k to work with but remember i'm completely stock at this point. so ill still need the big 3 which ill being buying this week. But i can add money as i go. I'm just looking to do the basic mod's right away. then ill start collecting part's until i have everything to rip into the motor and do it all at once.

My first mod's will be.
exhaust,tuner/chip then intake
I'll also be getting a set of paddles also

then its time to start collecting part's
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
if that is your quad in your sig then i would definatly get rid of the rear tires! they suck so bad. You wont know what im saying untill u replace them.
I have only had this quad for 1 week today. im planning on changing it up. I'm just doing my research first before just hoping on the first set of tire's. i only want to build this thing once. Thanks though us newbie's need all the help we can get. :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Get a nice set of Duals from the start. They make the best power and they lookj very good IMO.
Yeah I'm planning on duals for sure. It's between the DMC full set or the monster duals. Then i'm doing the FCI intake not sure on the tuner yet. I have some buddy's who have some nasty hillshooter's and they are helping me out.

here's some of there toy's.



 

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you do the work yourself or pay for labor?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
you do the work yourself or pay for labor?
Ill be doing about 90% of the work myself. then the real deep stuff ill have my buddy's help. on the side he has a shop and build's quad's for guy's so i'll have his help. so the rate's wont be crazy. ill still be paying something but not retail.
 

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Like stated above. Stock stroke and stock bore. IMO, it's amazing how much power the SBSS bikes are making, all they way up to 80hp+
 

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Shawnss - welcome to club Raptor and the forum.

The 3 mod is the best way to start for engine mods but there are many other areas to spend your budget to improve the 700. Since you're going into the trails I'd suggest some good skid guards, nerfs, steering stabilizer and one of the poly case savers. As previously mentioned some better/tougher tires will really help too.

Since you're 165lbs you shouldn't need suspension rework as I believe that's right around where Yamaha designed for. Spend time testing to dial in the shock adjustments and spring preloads to suite your riding styles.

Once you've mastered all the power and handling you can add some more compression and a camshaft. As you've capitalized RELIABLE I'd suggest the TQS 11.5 Tech piston that allows you to run pump gas. If you are "constantly" running the engine in the high/top rpms, the HC3 is very popular. If your riding uses more lower/mid range and needs a broader powerband then I'd suggest the HC2. The HC3 will ultimately make about 2 hp more above 6500rpm but loss that thru the low and mid range. Be honest with yourself where you run the engine rpm and pick the right cam for you.
Next on the mod list would be a +3 TB (throttle body).
 

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Yeah I'm planning on duals for sure. It's between the DMC full set or the monster duals. Then i'm doing the FCI intake not sure on the tuner yet. I have some buddy's who have some nasty hillshooter's and they are helping me out.

here's some of their toys.
Do the big3 all @ once so u don't have to get a new map everytime u add a peice. Even if you have to wait a while..site sponsors like tech quad shop and I think kb motorsports send their fuel controllers pre-mapped so it saves u money instead of getting it dyno'd
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Shawnss - welcome to club Raptor and the forum.

The 3 mod is the best way to start for engine mods but there are many other areas to spend your budget to improve the 700. Since you're going into the trails I'd suggest some good skid guards, nerfs, steering stabilizer and one of the poly case savers. As previously mentioned some better/tougher tires will really help too.

Since you're 165lbs you shouldn't need suspension rework as I believe that's right around where Yamaha designed for. Spend time testing to dial in the shock adjustments and spring preloads to suite your riding styles.

Once you've mastered all the power and handling you can add some more compression and a camshaft. As you've capitalized RELIABLE I'd suggest the TQS 11.5 Tech piston that allows you to run pump gas. If you are "constantly" running the engine in the high/top rpms, the HC3 is very popular. If your riding uses more lower/mid range and needs a broader powerband then I'd suggest the HC2. The HC3 will ultimately make about 2 hp more above 6500rpm but loss that thru the low and mid range. Be honest with yourself where you run the engine rpm and pick the right cam for you.
Next on the mod list would be a +3 TB (throttle body).
Thank you thats great info. I will look into the tech pistons. my plan is to do it right the first time. i have been down the path of just buying random parts and having to replace them because they weren't going to work for the other mod's i had. nothing like throwing money out the window. cause as we all know you never get close to retail for a part after its been used. thanks again.
 

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Maybe I'm off here in my way of thinking...but since you asked what a "Stock bore build" is, I don't think the stroke or displacement has any bearing on that. Bore = diameter of the cylinder, not the stroke length. You can have a stock bore stroker build, with increased displacement...but still fit in the stock bore class.

Now if you would have said stock bore, stock stroke (SBSS as most call it), then I would agree with MD's post (and Rappy'97's parrot act). But since the bore was the only thing mentioned, the crank doesn't really change that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Do the big3 all @ once so u don't have to get a new map everytime u add a peice. Even if you have to wait a while..site sponsors like tech quad shop and I think kb motorsports send their fuel controllers pre-mapped so it saves u money instead of getting it dyno'd
Oh yeah thats the plan for sure. i have the funds to get everything i just need to find out what brands i want for sure. :D
 

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Maybe I'm off here in my way of thinking...but since you asked what a "Stock bore build" is, I don't think the stroke or displacement has any bearing on that. Bore = diameter of the cylinder, not the stroke length. You can have a stock bore stroker build, with increased displacement...but still fit in the stock bore class.

Now if you would have said stock bore, stock stroke (SBSS as most call it), then I would agree with MD's post (and Rappy'97's parrot act). But since the bore was the only thing mentioned, the crank doesn't really change that.
I agree... not to stir the pot or anything.....Hey, jettings a mod right? :lol:
 

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Maybe I'm off here in my way of thinking...but since you asked what a "Stock bore build" is, I don't think the stroke or displacement has any bearing on that. Bore = diameter of the cylinder, not the stroke length. You can have a stock bore stroker build, with increased displacement...but still fit in the stock bore class.

Now if you would have said stock bore, stock stroke (SBSS as most call it), then I would agree with MD's post (and Rappy'97's parrot act). But since the bore was the only thing mentioned, the crank doesn't really change that.
Well put. And isn't the HC3 a mid to top not just top end. If your a duner get the HC3, IMO the higher compression makes up for the lose in low end. :thumbsup:
 

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Oh yeah thats the plan for sure. i have the funds to get everything i just need to find out what brands i want for sure. :D
If I were in ur shoes id get a fuel controller with timing right off the bat...I didn't have that option when I was buying so do yourself a favor and get it..unless ur stopping with the big 3...but we all said that to ourselves @ one time :D
 

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Well put. And isn't the HC3 a mid to top not just top end. If your a duner get the HC3, IMO the higher compression makes up for the lose in low end. :thumbsup:
Yep before I got deep into my build I ran the hc3 on a stock piston with good results in the trails and woods of northern Ky southern Ohio and Southern Indiana. Now I'm way past your question lol.
 
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