Raptor Forum banner

1 - 20 of 29 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello. Awesome forum. Long time browser, first time user.

I have a few questions regarding a new to me 03 Raptor 660. The guy I bought it from said the factory switch stopped working, so he wired a new one on a toggle, straight to the solenoid. He forgot to turn the toggle off after starting it and and it burnt up the wiring from the switch after a ride. I didn't think that would be too hard to fix, but the wiring harness has multiple cuts at the CDI and up front, but I'm not sure why.

The starter was toasted, sand and copper bits left of the guts. Replaced it and got a new solenoid. Also got a cheap kill switch, hoping to wire that in.

I downloaded the manual, compliments of Maddog56 (thank you!), and checked out Quadmaniac's posts (very informative!), but wiring is definitely not my strong suit.

Just want to get it running. Adjusted the valves, cleaned the carbs and reset the floats. Got it to push start before I ripped out the harness, but don't want to do that every time haha.

At the CDI end, there is an 8 pin connector with a black wire and a yellow/black wire cut. On the 4 pin connector there is a black/yellow wire cut. It seems like there is enough wire to connect them back together, but didn't know if they could possibly be cut for a reason? The yellow/black runs from the connector to a pin on the solenoid. 2 of these wires were taped together, but I can't remember which... sorry. There is also a light blue and green/white wire which has exposed wire from rubbing it looks like. Don't know if they are important.

At the front of the bike, I cut the red and brown wires from the key (no connector) to get the harness out (can be reconnected), but there is a 2 pin connector that has a red/white wire and red/black wire. The red/black is cut and the wire pulled out of the connector. The tab is still stuck in there and I can't get it out (no wire to pull on). The red/black traces back to the CDI.


My biggest questions are, can I just reconnect the wires at the CDI, or eliminate them? What can I do about the red/black wire that I can't reconnect at the front of the bike? Any help would be greatly appreciated. I tried to post pics, but after 30 mins, still couldn't get an upload.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Also forgot to mention that there is a red/black wire coming from the start/headlight switch that is cut just before the connector. There was a green wire ran to it, but I believe that it was wiring from the rigged up starter switch he had. It is cut too short to reconnect right there.

SO - first thing I would do is eliminate the run/stop switch by connecting red/white to red/black... now when you turn the key switch on, the CDI gets 12V, engine can start and run. When you turn key switch off, CDI loses 12V, engine stops.
@QuadManiac The black connector with the red/black and red/white... is that where you would connect them to accomplish the above? Before or after the connector? The red/white ties into a thicker and thinner brown wire, then runs brown all the way back. Sorry to bother, just inquiring from the 05 wire elimination thread. Trying to tackle it without being too much of a pain in the ass.
 

·
Master of the Electron
Joined
·
15,070 Posts
Black/red Red/White comes from the key switch and goes to the run/stop switch and should be 12V when the key switch is turned on.

Red/Black comes from the other side of the run/stop switch and supplies 12V to the CDI when the run/stop switch is turned on. (Run/Stop is, effectively, the kill switch... but on this quad it is an ON switch)

The black wire from 8 pin at CDI is CDI ground - it must connect, somehow, to the negative battery terminal. The black wire in the harness does this - and I expect that's where this was cut from.

If you simply connect black/red Red/White to red/black (and reconnect the ground) then the CDI is ON whenever key switch is on.

Can't tell you why all the other wires are cut... but if you have and understand the wiring diagram you will see that most are not needed to allow engine to run - most are safety features - reverse switch and light, neutral switch, parking brake switch, speed sensor... etc.

You can take control of the solenoid by applying (at the solenoid) 12V to where yellow/black WAS (make sure yellow/black is disconnected from CDI, as your's is currently) and by grounding (through a MOMENTARY CONTACT switch - just like the start button on bars) the blue/black wire at the solenoid. When pushing the button, the relay will close and starter should crank.

Assuming the CDI ground (black at CDI), pulse coil (white/red and white/green) and spark coil (orange) is properly connected and If 12V is on red/black at CDI you should have spark and it will start.

Now if you want to start adding back the safety features, we can talk some more - ONCE you get the engine running... crawl before walking!
 
  • Like
Reactions: Rip&Tear

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Black/red comes from the key switch and goes to the run/stop switch and should be 12V when the key switch is turned on.

Red/Black comes from the other side of the run/stop switch and supplies 12V to the CDI when the run/stop switch is turned on. (Run/Stop is, effectively, the kill switch... but on this quad it is an ON switch)

The black wire from 8 pin at CDI is CDI ground - it must connect, somehow, to the negative battery terminal. The black wire in the harness does this - and I expect that's where this was cut from.

If you simply connect black/red to red/black (and reconnect the ground) then the CDI is ON whenever key switch is on.

Can't tell you why all the other wires are cut... but if you have and understand the wiring diagram you will see that most are not needed to allow engine to run - most are safety features - reverse switch and light, neutral switch, parking brake switch, speed sensor... etc.

You can take control of the solenoid by applying (at the solenoid) 12V to where yellow/black WAS (make sure yellow/black is disconnected from CDI, as your's is currently) and by grounding (through a MOMENTARY CONTACT switch - just like the start button on bars) the blue/black wire at the solenoid. When pushing the button, the relay will close and starter should crank.

Assuming the CDI ground (black at CDI), pulse coil (white/red and white/green) and spark coil (orange) is properly connected and If 12V is on red/black at CDI you should have spark and it will start.

Now if you want to start adding back the safety features, we can talk some more - ONCE you get the engine running... crawl before walking!
Thanks for the response!

I can't find a black/red from the key switch. I have a solid red and solid brown that comes from the key switch. From the start/kill switch I have a red/black and a red/white. Perhaps mine has red/white instead of black/red?

I will tie the ground (black) back together. As far as connecting the red/black to black/red (red/white), do you mean splice, or cut both at the switch and tie the non-switch ends together? Sorry, not very adept to wiring. I have the diagram, but I'm not very good at translating it yet.

Assuming that I'm understanding correctly, I can take the yellow/black (leaving it cut at the CDI) and put the non-CDI side to the positive post on the battery, so it's connected from battery to solenoid pin? Then cut the blue/black at the handlebars and hook it to one side of the new switch? Ground the other side of the switch?

Sorry if I botched that. I'm looking at the diagram as I type this, trying to learn to read it better. I appreciate the assistance.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
@QuadManiac

I think I'm starting to understand this diagram from reading your posts in other threads now.

Connecting the red/white and red/black (kill switch circuit) eliminates the kill switch, powering the CDI anytime the key is turned on... Making it the kill switch.

So now, I can just cut the blue/black at the switch, wire it to the switch, and then wire the other side of the switch to ground... Right? I put all the other wires back together, as far as the lights and sensors go... just because.

I will put the harness back in tomorrow and await your confirmation, just to make sure I'm not screwing it up. Really appreciate it. You're very informative, thank you!
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
8,220 Posts
QuadManiac is probably THE most valuable asset concerning the 660’s. You are in good hands following his lead for sure. Just take your time and it will all come together. Glad to see you in here.
 

·
Master of the Electron
Joined
·
15,070 Posts
@QuadManiac


Connecting the red/white and red/black (kill switch circuit) eliminates the kill switch, powering the CDI anytime the key is turned on... Making it the kill switch.

So now, I can just cut the blue/black at the switch, wire it to the A MOMENTARY switch, and then wire the other side of the switch to ground... Right? I put all the other wires back together, as far as the lights and sensors go... just because.
By jove, I think you've got it!

SORRY - it's Red/White, not Black/red - was quoting from memory... and BTW, it actually tees off of the brown.

I would connect the yellow/black solenoid connection to red/black so it also goes away when key is off.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
By jove, I think you've got it!

SORRY - it's Red/White, not Black/red - was quoting from memory... and BTW, it actually tees off of the brown.

I would connect the yellow/black solenoid connection to red/black so it also goes away when key is off.
Thanks for the clarification.

I put the yellow/black back together with the other end of the yellow/black. I clipped the red/white and red/black connector off and tied them together there. Clipped the blue/black at the connector and put it to one side of the switch. other end to ground on the battery. Tied the ground back together. All the connectors are together good.

Stupid question... The solenoid doesn't care about polarity, right? Put the harness back in, put a fully charged battery in, but no power. In neutral, no neutral light (didn't mess with that wire) and it previously worked. Not sure where I messed up. Not sure if it could be the yellow/black or not. I'm going to recheck all the connections and splices.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Battery and solenoid are wired good, sparks across the terminal posts with a screwdriver, no attempt to turn the starter though. Looking at the wiring diagram, I'm not sure which wires go to which pins, but I've tried every variation... Nothing at the key switch. No temp light either.

Accidentally touched the red pin wire to the positive connection on the solenoid, threw sparks. I don't know if that helps.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
If i recall correctly, the black/yellow and yellow/black were tied together at the CDI. Just saw another of your posts (@QuadManiac) in another thread about a blown transistor? Think it's possible this is blown as well?

I"m guessing that since it's not powering the CDI, that wouldn't allow it to power the dash lights and possibly be causing a no power issue? I see the Sb wire in the diagram goes to the neutral light, but not sure if the yellow/black powers that. No transistors in the diagram to judge by. I DID NOT tie the yellow/black to the red/black. If I need to mod that, it's fine, just not sure if that's the problem.

Sorry for the million posts. Just trying to detail everything I find to limit the amount of shit for you to sort through haha.
 

·
Master of the Electron
Joined
·
15,070 Posts
Thanks for the clarification.

I put the yellow/black back together with the other end of the yellow/black NOOOO - where did i say to reconnect yellow/blacks back together? I said to leave them disconnected and tie ONLY the SOLENOID end to red/black. I clipped the red/white and red/black connector off and tied them together there. Clipped the blue/black at the connector and put it to one side of the switch. other end to ground on the battery. Tied the ground back together. All the connectors are together good.

Stupid question... The solenoid doesn't care about polarity, right? YES IT DOES - BATTERY PLUS MUST GO TO THE PROPER LUG ON THE SOLENOID - the fuse connects to that lug and so all other power comes from there. Put the harness back in, put a fully charged battery in, but no power. In neutral, no neutral light (didn't mess with that wire) and it previously worked. Not sure where I messed up. Not sure if it could be the yellow/black or not. I'm going to recheck all the connections and splices.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
You were very clear on your end. I tied the yellow/black back together to try and get it back to "factory", that's the only reason. I will disconnect and splice into the red/black.

It's possible I have the solenoid backwards then. I haven't had time to get back to it in a couple days. Thanks. I'll report back when I get it switched around.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Finally! Had the solenoid in backwards haha. Fires up fast now. I have some carb tuning to do now that it's running. I didn't splice the yellow/black into the red/black yet, but I will to prevent any future "incidents". Thanks a million!
 

·
Master of the Electron
Joined
·
15,070 Posts
Woohoo! great job,

You can try connecting the yellow/blacks back together (BUT not connected to red/black at the same time!!!) and see if your new start button still works, but I suspect that bridge is passed and it won't.

If 12V gets connected (by a jumper to battery+ or by the red/black wire) to the CDI's yellow/black terminal it usually blows the output transistor in the CDI that provides 12v to the solenoid's relay coil when the CDI deems it safe to start. If your's is stiil ok then you are in great shape. Else, just separate the yellow/blacks and tie the solenoid's yellow/black to red/black.

BTW, if you still have a working switch on the clutch handle (not the parking brake) we can use that as a safety interlock to prevent starting unless the clutch is pulled!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Woohoo! great job,

You can try connecting the yellow/blacks back together (BUT not connected to red/black at the same time!!!) and see if your new start button still works, but I suspect that bridge is passed and it won't.

If 12V gets connected (by a jumper to battery+ or by the red/black wire) to the CDI's yellow/black terminal it usually blows the output transistor in the CDI that provides 12v to the solenoid's relay coil when the CDI deems it safe to start. If your's is stiil ok then you are in great shape. Else, just separate the yellow/blacks and tie the solenoid's yellow/black to red/black.

BTW, if you still have a working switch on the clutch handle (not the parking brake) we can use that as a safety interlock to prevent starting unless the clutch is pulled!
The new start button works with the yellow/blacks reconnected. I haven't spliced the yellow/black into the red/black yet. Straightening out the carbs at the moment... Needed a rebuild. Should I leave them connected or splice? Doesn't really matter to me as long as it works reliably haha.

Would there be a reason I would want to pull the clutch to start it? I know some other bikes are like that, but i don't mind not needing to if there's no benefit. Now a kickstart option... haha.
 

·
Master of the Electron
Joined
·
15,070 Posts
Then forget the red/black connection to yellow/black at solenoid! You don't need or want it.

Leave the yellow/blacks connected to each other. Your CDI is working properly. The clutch switch was a workaround only if the CDI was damaged.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Rip&Tear

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Then forget the red/black connection to yellow/black at solenoid! You don't need or want it.

Leave the yellow/blacks connected to each other. Your CDI is working properly. The clutch switch was a workaround only if the CDI was damaged.
I appreciate the help man... Solid!

Just can't wait to ride it already haha.
 

·
Master of the Electron
Joined
·
15,070 Posts
Hey, your progress has been fantastic, considering what a disaster it was.

Now put the same diligence into the carbs and, hopefully, you'll be kicking butt real soon!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Hey, your progress has been fantastic, considering what a disaster it was.

Now put the same diligence into the carbs and, hopefully, you'll be kicking butt real soon!
Thanks. The carbs are turning out to be a pain in the ass too. Got turned on to using a clear tube and a 3mm mark above the gasket surface, but it's being finicky one way or the other. 3mm the carbs leak, bike runs good. Floats set higher, no leaks, but the bike backfires and dies when I turn the choke off.
 
1 - 20 of 29 Posts
Top