[hitmix300]

hey everyone, my 660 has sat for about 6 months. I need some advice because i'm really stumped. i have put another battery thats like new from one of my other quads but everytime the thing trys to start or take off or sounds like theres combustion theres a nasty noise from the starter or where it goes to the motor. is this the starter clutch or a common problem i've been reading about? should i bother to check valve clearence, timing and compression? THANKS!!!

video link: http://tinypic.com/r/2jg54lz/7

 

[willykiller]

hey everyone, my 660 has sat for about 6 months. I need some advice because i'm really stumped. i have put another battery thats like new from one of my other quads but everytime the thing trys to start or take off or sounds like theres combustion theres a nasty noise from the starter or where it goes to the motor. is this the starter clutch or a common problem i've been reading about? should i bother to check valve clearence, timing and compression? THANKS!!!

video link: http://tinypic.com/r/2jg54lz/7

Start by cleaning the carbs, and adjusting the valves.............

 

[QuadManiac]

You may be hearing the starter one-way beginning to fail, but you should do as Willy suggests first, then determine whether you still have a starting problem.

 

[hitmix300]

alright i have a update and a few questions for you folks. I tore the plastics off the machine to do the valves but the tutorial i was following wasn't specific. do i need to be on a certain stroke when making sure i'm lining up on the top dead center mark? I have all the tools to do the job but i cannot figure that out if it matters or not.

Also, my one way bearing and gear were both messed up, i ordered a kit to repair it. the motor started not engaging at all and when it did, it clunked and sounded very bad.

any help with the valves would be good, simple question i know, but i want to be 100 percent sure.

i actually had it at the mark and checked out the exhaust valves and the part on top with the nut and adjustment seemed loose? it had a little play to go up and down.. is this right?

 

[willykiller]

alright i have a update and a few questions for you folks. I tore the plastics off the machine to do the valves but the tutorial i was following wasn't specific. do i need to be on a certain stroke when making sure i'm lining up on the top dead center mark? I have all the tools to do the job but i cannot figure that out if it matters or not.

Also, my one way bearing and gear were both messed up, i ordered a kit to repair it. the motor started not engaging at all and when it did, it clunked and sounded very bad.

any help with the valves would be good, simple question i know, but i want to be 100 percent sure.

i actually had it at the mark and checked out the exhaust valves and the part on top with the nut and adjustment seemed loose? it had a little play to go up and down.. is this right?

The way I like to set up the engine is to line the TDC mark on the flywheel with the pointer, then rock the crank back and forth a 1/4 turn, the valves should not move, if they do, you are out one complete revolution of the crank so turn it one more turn and recheck, the valves shouldnt move until you are close to 1/2 turn from TDC...........

 

[hitmix300]

okay. i think i over tightened the exhaust valves. i made a little video. the intake valves do not wiggle at all like the exhaust do. i ended up getting sidetracked with the starter clutch failing poorly so i replaced that. now it turns over like a champ. I hope my exhaust valves are normal in the video to you folks but whenever i get to the tdc mark and check a 1/4 turn both ways and it doesn't move, it's super loose!!! If i over tightened on accident a result of having the top of the valve become loose?

http://tinypic.com/r/2roj7fq/7

 

[willykiller]

That is way too loose, .0055 is max on the exhaust valve..............

 

[QuadManiac]

You have UNDER tightened, not over tightened the clearance. Your video shows the exhaust rockers moving WAY too much. They should only move by the spec'd clearance, .005 inch or so. Your's appear to have at least 0.2 inch, perhaps 40 times too much! You have so much, I'd be surprised if the bike runs.

Just so you're sure, it is the clearance between the rocker screw and valve stem that your are adjusting - that's where you put the feeler gauge. Move it around while tightening down the screw (loosen the lock nuts first); when you feel the feeler gauge start to grab just a bit, you're there; tighten the lock nuts and check again.

You certainly need to re-adjust them.

 

[hitmix300]

i could have sworn i had them right on key the second time, then after messing around with the starter clutch i doubled checked everything and found that play.. i'll screw them down like you mentioned and give it another go. thanks everyone! i'll let you know what i find out, i have NO IDEA how they would loosen out that far after a couple of turn overs doesn't make any sense! i'll get to the bottom of this

 

[QuadManiac]

Is it possible that you adjusted on the wrong TDC stroke previously? That could account for too large clearance.

 

[willykiller]

Is it possible that you adjusted on the wrong TDC stroke previously? That could account for too large clearance.

This is correct.............
When adjusted on the wrong TDC, the cam lobes are in an overlap position, meaning at one point both valves may be open, when adjusted in this position, the valves WILL be adjusted with too much play since they will feel tight.
This is why I always say, make sure you rock the engine back and forth a 1/4 turn, you should not see any valve movement what so ever............

 

[hitmix300]

i had to of. thanks so much for your help Quadmaniac, i changed it over today and it turns over great now, just gotta hook up the carb again and the intake tubes. i'll report back when she's purring :]

 

[QuadManiac]

Glad to hear it...


I always suggest going even a bit further than Willy, when trying to find TDC compression stroke:

1) watch intake valves and flywheel while slowly turning engine counter clockwise with a socket and breaker bar.
2) at about the same time, you should see intakes start to open and I showing up in flywheel inspection port.
3) turn another full turn until I shows up in inspection port again
4) rock crank back and forth 1/8 turn or so and verfiy that valves are not moving at all

YOU'RE THERE

 

[hitmix300]

right on guys i got it idling, now when i gas it it sputters and stalls. so i think the carbs need a look over, i completely ignored cleaning them only because the last owner stripped many screws on the bolts and a few other spots. looks like i'll have to take some tools to it.

now unfortunately my gasket for the side of the motor wasn't sealed right at the bottom so i lost all the new oil i put in after changing the starter clutch. its hard to keep that gasket right in the right spot. im going to take the side back off and try putting it in the right spot and make sure it stays there

 

[QuadManiac]

Don't forget that the reverse RPM limiter and the parking brake RPM limiter can cause it to spit and sputter with throttle just above idle. Read "Most Common Raptor 660 Problems" sticky at the top of the General 660 Discussion section for more detail - look the RPM limiter section.

You're problem could be dirty carb related, but don't chase your tail in circles without having verified that it's NOT one of the RPM limiters that's causing your symptoms.

Did you have all three hollow locating dowels in the side cover? They help hold the gasket in place and if any ARE missing, the side cover can be mis-aligned, causing damage to the stator and binding up the starter gears. I have also been known to cheat and use just a TINY bit of RTV gasket maker to hold the gasket in place - don't use enough to squeeze out or it can break off and get in small oil passages, plugging them... just a VERY thin section in a few stubborn places on the gasket will hold it in place. Of course, you have to clean oil off the side cover's edge for this to work - alcohol works well.