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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
well were into winter now and it's time to start the build process like most, so my so my bike will be done in time for riding season.

started out with a stroked yfz 450 (built to 502) and it was time for a routine top end build. At that time I ran across a good deal on a 05 R1 motor set and decided to rebuild my 502 and sell it.

Around the same time I met a friend who had a shop modify his frame for a R1 YFZ 450 and we decided that we liked the design of the frame modification but not the execution by the shop (how they ran the frame tubes and mounted them looked sloppy) and being mechanically inclined we decided we could do it better our self's!
 

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well were into winter now and it's time to start the build process like most, so my so my bike will be done in time for riding season.

started out with a stroked yfz 450 (built to 502) and it was time for a routine top end build. At that time I ran across a good deal on a 05 R1 motor set and decided to rebuild my 502 and sell it.

Around the same time I met a friend who had a shop modify his frame for a R1 YFZ 450 and we decided that we liked the design of the frame modification but not the execution by the shop (how they ran the frame tubes and mounted them looked sloppy) and being mechanically inclined we decided we could do it better our self's!
you think you will have it done by the Raptor rally?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Mounted on my welding table and started chopping:

the plan is to continue the cut down from the top tube (in the front you can see the marks)all the way to split the frame into two, add 3" of length for more room in the engine bay weld it back together. Chop it again where the steering stem bearing is and add another 3" in length to the front of the frame. The thought process behind this to add more length to the front in order to prevent the front end from digging into the sand while launching due to the weight of the motor and provide more stability
 

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Keep postin pics as you go. I have a 05 yfz roller one day I will drop the 05 gsxr 1000 motor I have in it. For now I am going to just keep talking about it........
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
once I cut the rest of the bottom tube free I will use 1" 4130 chromoloy tubing (cut half moons out of the frame below where this tube is pictured) I will also make 45 degree cuts on the ends of the tube and start building my bottom tubes for my engine bay
[/IMG]
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
the plan is to have it done for the rally! I hope to have the motor in soon. I just need to get the rest of the engine bay cut out then I plan to use a cherry picker to lift the motor to the right height then cut and attach some angle iron to the side motor mounts of the engine so I have it held at the right height and I can move it around to get the sprockets aligned perfect (PBI is the place to go you can order from there web site and they will send them right to you)

right now I'm trying to decide what size rear sprocket to run with( front is 14) I see some guys are running 52 and some are running 54, my buddy is running a 54 and likes it so i'm leaning that way, any input from another liter bike swap rider?
 

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looks like a sick build so far man keep at it
 

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nice build, I'm doing a zx10 on a 06 raptor. its fun as he(( honestly. in fact i wanted to see your build so far, now I'm about to get off my laptop and hit the garage to start with framing up and welding. good luck and keep us posted!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Did some work tonight and got the rest of the frame cut out, as soon as the sprockets show up from PBI I'll start on the motor install
[/IMG]
More Craigslist goodies needed to do the swing arm conversion to the round style carrier
Sprockets showed up from PBI
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
decided that making a motor stand would take to much time and used some blocks instead

baby's got back!!
 

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Nice! I'm jealous waiting for my parts. I'm kinda on hold til I get them ugh
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Stretched the front 3"

Notched my frame tube to allow for a better weld joint (I'm broke used a grinder)
I'm using 4130 so I only tacked it with my MIG machine, I will take my frame in and have every thing TIG welded
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
headed down to home depot yesterday and bought some 1/8" rod so I could mock up some things before I started cutting tubing, originally I was going to have the tubing mandrel bent to butt into the front of the frame, to save some money I think I might do what is pictured ((the round rod represents 1" 4130 tubing))

The final product would be symmetrical unlike in the picture where I just roughed it, I was concerned about it looking boxy but with the a-arms on I think it'll look good
 

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I can't tell....are u attaching the frame, engine, and swinger all on the same mount? I can't tell where the back engine mount is
 

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Looks like it will be one bad quad. How much power dose that R1 motor make?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I can't tell....are u attaching the frame, engine, and swinger all on the same mount? I can't tell where the back engine mount is
There are two back engine mounts one is located at the bottom where I welded on the 1.25" tubing (I'll weld tabs onto it) and the other back motor mount is about 2/3 of the way up the frame from the swing arm mount (again I will weld in a tube with tabs)
 

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it's a 05 R1 motor so they make 172hp at the crank but I plan on running a custom intake and exhaust manifolds and a PC5 so it should put down some more
Take that number and then take away about 15%-20% from the total. Once you take it from a free spining wheel on an axle and put it through a carrier an axle and 2 tires you lose a little. Anywhere from 140-150hp would be my guess. Mine 01 R1 quad put down 120hp and 70ft tq. It was a race preped motor that put down 150 in the race bike. Other things will also effect this like chain selection. An o-ring will last longer but you'll lose 3-4hp using one.

And after all of that you have more then enough to scare the shit out of yourself. Trust me!
 
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