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Dude this is gonna be a BAD bike! I cant wait to see it finished. Keep the pics coming! Its looking good
 

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Discussion Starter #25 (Edited)
anymore updates on this build? im about to start a raptor street bike build. have you read much about the motor sprocket placement?
I haven't gotten the chance to get much more done, work has picked up and I came down with the flu at the same time... as far as the sprocket placement goes you want the drive sprocket on the motor as close to the swing arm pivot as possible and 1"-1 1/2" above it
If you mock it up similar to this with a laser or chain on your sprockets you can make sure your sprockets are perfectly aligned
(NOTE* I took this picture for fun and as you can see the drive sprocket is sitting to high and in reality would need to be lowered into that 1"-1 1/2" range)
 

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An o-ring will last longer but you'll lose 3-4hp using one.
You're #'s are way off. I've actually tested a conventional chain vs. X-ring and it showed a .3 HP difference. The O and X-ring has more resistance than a conventional chain, but once the O and X-ring chains heat up they have less drag than a conventional chain. My testing was done with both chains at room temp so the #'s will change even more (equalling less power loss in favor of very small gain) once the chain reaches operating temp.
 

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Cool build, can't wait to see this done
 

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Discussion Starter #28 (Edited)
You're #'s are way off. I've actually tested a conventional chain vs. X-ring and it showed a .3 HP difference. The O and X-ring has more resistance than a conventional chain, but once the O and X-ring chains heat up they have less drag than a conventional chain. My testing was done with both chains at room temp so the #'s will change even more (equalling less power loss in favor of very small gain) once the chain reaches operating temp.
good info, I wasn't thinking that there was that much power loss either

Did a little more work to finish up the bottom of the frame
* the cardboard represents a gusset I will make that'll wrap all the way around that tube like what was there on the stock frame
 

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Nice work so far.looks like your building this with a 07-08 r1 motor? or am i wrong? I was planning on keeping my sprocket in the same location as the factory 700 sprocket. i know the motor will sit a bit closer to the front of the bike than the 700 motor did. but i'm hoping to keep it about the stock height or as close as possible.
 

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shizzle.....youa re using the stock sprocket carrier/hub with the bigger sprocket? I couldn't get mine off the stock axle. kinda pissed me off. i think I'm gonna do some more work on mine tomorrow. I've been a bit busy with work and kinda las=zy lol
 

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Discussion Starter #31 (Edited)
Nice work so far.looks like your building this with a 07-08 r1 motor? or am i wrong? I was planning on keeping my sprocket in the same location as the factory 700 sprocket. i know the motor will sit a bit closer to the front of the bike than the 700 motor did. but i'm hoping to keep it about the stock height or as close as possible.
my motor is a 2006 it has the N512E designator on the engine block, I ended up stretching the engine bay by 3" to add more clearance for the radiator and stretch the wheel base a bit for better weight distribution, just a thought

shizzle.....youa re using the stock sprocket carrier/hub with the bigger sprocket? I couldn't get mine off the stock axle. kinda pissed me off. i think I'm gonna do some more work on mine tomorrow. I've been a bit busy with work and kinda las=zy lol
yeah I'm waiting on my +10 swing arm, who did you get yours from?? I'm trying to use a lot of the stock stuff because my budget is small so I'm going to also use the stock axle too, I know it'll last me 1 riding season which is long enough to save up for a bad ass one.

*** Talked with one of the guys at xtream motorworks today about figuring out the rear shock angle and length. They were very helpful, pretty much said to get the bike on the ground with the tires and a-arms and swing arm, get the swing arm pretty flat but not totally flat to allow for some load and then measure for your shock length, they also said a good starting point for me would be about 2in forward from the stock mount on the swing arm..... there is more to it that was just the down and dirty
 

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So what are you planning on doing for the wiring harness??? are you going to try wiring it all yourself or ship it off and have somebody else do it? r you planning on running the factory r1 gauge? I got my motor kit yesterday day 07 r1 with complete motor harness along with the 07 r1 gauge cluster and gauge cluster/headlight harness. man is it a wiring mess. i have so many unplugged connector's on my harness. thats the only part that freak's me out im trying to figured it all out but im might just send my wiring harness off.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
So what are you planning on doing for the wiring harness??? are you going to try wiring it all yourself or ship it off and have somebody else do it? r you planning on running the factory r1 gauge? I got my motor kit yesterday day 07 r1 with complete motor harness along with the 07 r1 gauge cluster and gauge cluster/headlight harness. man is it a wiring mess. i have so many unplugged connector's on my harness. thats the only part that freak's me out im trying to figured it all out but im might just send my wiring harness off.
Definitely planning on having someone local wire it up and also having them clean up the wiring harness by eliminating any sensors off it that I don't need to use, the R1 gauge cluster FTW for sure use that. I plan on making a gas tank and fit it under the rear sub frame, going to use a external fuel pump that matches the factory flow rate and it's only 5psi over the factory max pressure so the stock FPR will have no problem with it (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G3138/) and it's cheaper than buying a stock R1 fuel pump
 

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Definitely planning on having someone local wire it up and also having them clean up the wiring harness by eliminating any sensors off it that I don't need to use, the R1 gauge cluster FTW for sure use that. I plan on making a gas tank and fit it under the rear sub frame, going to use a external fuel pump that matches the factory flow rate and it's only 5psi over the factory max pressure so the stock FPR will have no problem with it (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G3138/) and it's cheaper than buying a stock R1 fuel pump
Nice. Yeah ill be runnig the factory cluster. I'm thinking of trying to tackle wirinig harness myself. Will see and more parts start showing up. I all bought all the factory R1 controlls so I'm planning on running blinkers,running lights, taillight and head lights. I live in montana so we can ride atvs on public roads so that should be fun. I think I'm going to start cutting the frame tonight. I guess will see what happens.
 

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I all bought all the factory R1 controlls so I'm planning on running blinkers,running lights, taillight and head lights. I live in montana so we can ride atvs on public roads so that should be fun.
Hell yea :cool: I'm jealous
 

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Hell yea :cool: I'm jealous
Yeah a lot of places that don't let you ride on the street's but im sure glad Mt let's you. for a few summers in a row thats all i used as my DD was my 04 660 it was a blast but i hated how it seemed like it topped out fast with only having 5 gear's i don't think ill have a problem with the R1 motor.
 

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Not sure what your planning on doing for exhaust. but if your running the stock R1 header. you will need to run the Exup servo motor to control the baffle's in the exhaust. But if your not running the servo motor you will need a exup servo motor eliminator. a few different company's make this eliminator it run's about $75. from what ive been reading if you just unplug the servo motor it will throw a engine code and put the motor into limp mod. do you have the factory wiring harness? i have done a ton of researching and i'm doing the wiring myself now. i pretty much have everything lined up now. if you don't know where a sensor or pigtail connector goes on your wiring harness let me know i can help you out.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Not sure what your planning on doing for exhaust. but if your running the stock R1 header. you will need to run the Exup servo motor to control the baffle's in the exhaust. But if your not running the servo motor you will need a exup servo motor eliminator. a few different company's make this eliminator it run's about $75. from what ive been reading if you just unplug the servo motor it will throw a engine code and put the motor into limp mod. do you have the factory wiring harness? i have done a ton of researching and i'm doing the wiring myself now. i pretty much have everything lined up now. if you don't know where a sensor or pigtail connector goes on your wiring harness let me know i can help you out.
I plan on using a custom exhaust manifold a friend has (he has a R1 yfz and is turboing it) I was planning on using the Exup servo until I did some reading about it, it sounds like it works great on stock set ups but all the race bikes remove them and a lot of aftermarket exhaust's have you remove it too. So no servo for me, I would really like to see how your wiring turns out (might save me some money by not paying someone)
 

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I plan on using a custom exhaust manifold a friend has (he has a R1 yfz and is turboing it) I was planning on using the Exup servo until I did some reading about it, it sounds like it works great on stock set ups but all the race bikes remove them and a lot of aftermarket exhaust's have you remove it too. So no servo for me, I would really like to see how your wiring turns out (might save me some money by not paying someone)
yeah i'm hoping it turn's out good. I'm find a lot of little thing you need for this swap. the stock 700 clutch cable isn't long enough either so i'm going to try and find something that will work.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Well progress is pretty slow right now, got a swing arm lined up to be built this weekend ( going to run a +10 no link) and looking for a tubing bender

After talking with the guys at Xtreme motorworks I'm going to stay away from the Marvin Shaw hillshooter rear shock and save up for a nice coil over set up from racetech or someone like that it'll take longer but I really want the best final product and I believe with these type of builds it's all about getting the power to the ground and running the best rear shock (set up properly at the correct angle) is the key
 
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