[pacanis]

Mods. I can only suggest you try to do them all at once unless you want to do a lot of redundant work.

As I mentioned in another post, I ordered some stuff I got in Monday, two skids and a Dr D reverse lever. I put the skids on that night. Easy enough, but lining up the bolts, skid and spacers took a little dexterity and a lot of luck to get two of the bolts started. Those with Pro Armor chassis skids know which two I'm talking about .
Today I'm going to install the reverse lever. I look at the instructions and the first thing it says is to remove the skid plate. You gotta be freakin kidding me. Not to mention I don't know how many times I've had the front plastic off routing my alarm or Vapor or Dobeck.....

Maybe I should wait until I get a light kit before I go any further :lol: I'll probably end up taking the front off again. Ya gotta love it

 

[scott011422]

Brother, aint that the truth! I'm at that point now. I went to start installing my Vapor last night, but my skids and HID come in Friday. Why do twice the work? And then on my GF's quad, She has a vapor to install too, But she also wants underglows like I have. Well to to the underglows RIGHT, I have to take jsut as much apart if not more than for the vapor!! So thats jsut waiting till she gets her neons and it'll all be done at once!

I feel you pain! Keep it up though!

 

[pacanis]

I'm tellin ya man.... so help me when my 15T sprocket comes in this week, if the first thing I read is Take off the front plastic :crazy: :lol:

It wasn't too bad. I loosened up the right side plastic and got just enough play I could get a phillips head screwdriver through the old switch hole and take the switch off. It wasn't a picnic working with the skid on either, but very doable.
The Vapor didn't need a major relocation. I just put it on the opposite side of the brake lever bracket.

Can't seem to get any play in the Dr D reverse lever like they call for, but it works just fine. Better than the old switch. It seems more positive for some reason.

 

[MONSTERMATT]

"take off the front plastic" and skid plate"

 

[GuamRaptor700]

On the pro armor skids, I like to use a little bit of liquid gasket or silicone to hold those washers in place while i mount the skid. Just a small drop to hold it in place.

 

[MONSTERMATT]

no shitt, i was so pissed tryin to hold that washer under the plate, what if you just left those off ?

 

[GEARHEAD9969]

A few drops of RTV around the washer works awesome, just let it dry a while before you install.

 

[pile0g00]

The gytr skids came with a small plastic thing you put on the bolt after putting the washer on to hold it there. You could just get a small plastic washer and use it the same way.

 

[pacanis]

Good ideas :thumbsup:. If I ever have the chassis skid off again I will use something to hold the spacers in place when I remount.
This first time I kept loosening up the rest of the bolts and finally got enough play that I could get my fingers in and slide the spacer up into view of the slot. I then put the bolt through it and worked it the rest of the way towards the threaded hole. PITA, that's for sure.

Gotta readjust the Dr D reverse tomorrow. I thought it was working fine, but tonight when I downshifted into first it went right into reverse. Thankfully nothing but a little clunk, as I was going pretty slow. Somehow I have to find a way to get some slack in the cable (apparently). The adjustment nuts didn't do anything, but I may have routed the cable *too neatly* against the frame. Removing any adjustment I could get out of them.....

 

[pacanis]

No luck. I checked my routing of the reverse cable very carefully and it's loose and without bends. I still can't get any play in the reverse lever. At least not with the tension spring in place on the shift bracket. I can get all kinds of play if the spring is off. Those adjustment nuts on the cable don't affect it at all.

Does anyone here have the Dr D reverse lever and the same problem?

Thanks

 

[Talljess]

hey pac this article addresses the same free play issue and shows a hot-fix for it...

 

[Talljess]

damn forgot this link..my badhttp://atv.off-road.com/atv/article/articleDetail.jsp?id=191556

 

[pacanis]

Thanks, you da man :thumbsup:
I was thinking that maybe I had to bend the bracket on the frame. I just wish they had said if they bent it closer to the shift linkage or further away It looks like closer to the linkage comparing the two pics, but not by much. Plus I notice that they have the adjustment nuts screwed up tight to the cable housing.

This should get me going. Thanks for the link

 

[Talljess]

no prob pac...i read that awhile back and thought to myself about getting it if i ever broke the stock one..glad i saved the link :thumbsup:

 

[Hippy]

GYT-R skid plates have a little plastic washer that holds the washer on the bolt ..
anyway
I did not take my skid plate off to route my cable

 

[Talljess]

yes they say u dont HAVE to in the article just makes it easier

 

[pacanis]

Well it would certainly make bending that bracket easier without the skids on. I barely got a slight bend in it using Vise grips. There's just no good way to grip it and have room to move the grips with the skids on. It would have been nice to get a screwdriver on it and tap it, but you can't get at it cause of the hoses. I also wound the jam nuts all the way into the cable. I barely got a dimes width of play in the thumb lever (they call for a nickel) BUT.... no more slipping into reverse.

Yahoo :thumbsup: