Hey guys I was wondering if anybody could help me out. I just got back into town and finally sat back down with my atv. Yes I know I've been here before. And yes it's still not running. I went out on the first day it was somewhat warm to take a look at it and I couldn't get the timing chain around the camshaft. There simply wasn't enough slack, I tried pulling and twisting to no avail. Is there a tensioner I'm unaware of? If so where is it? Also do I need to do any fiddling with the guide? For the most part when I try getting the chain around the cam one side is pinched against the wall of the jug between the camshaft. I get about three quarters up cam and then it's just too tight.
Beaver
How to loosen the Timing Chain on a Yamaha Raptor
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I cant see your picture. Do you have a service manual? It gives the proceedure for timing chain removal and installation. Yes, there is a tensioner. I highly recommend downloading a manual for free, it is a great reference for things like this.
If you have a manual already, and just need a little more help, we are happy to chime in. But nobody wants to sit and type out a proceedure that is already printed in the service manual
Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
If you have a manual already, and just need a little more help, we are happy to chime in. But nobody wants to sit and type out a proceedure that is already printed in the service manual
Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
Be sure the tensioner is removed. Remove the gear from the cam, put chain on gear, install gear on cam, and check timing. Adjust as needed.
You don't roll the timing chain on to the sprocket when bolted to the Cam. You put the chain on the sprocket then Bolt it to the Cam.
There is a chain tensioner. It's on the back LH side of the cylinder. You remove the large center Bolt. The the two smaller bolts to totaly remove the adjuster. It's spring loaded and must be reset before installing. You flip the ratchet pawl up and push the plunger back in. The install it with the two small bolts. Then you put the spring and large Bolt in. You want to make sure the main body is tightened down before doing the center Bolt.
There is a chain tensioner. It's on the back LH side of the cylinder. You remove the large center Bolt. The the two smaller bolts to totaly remove the adjuster. It's spring loaded and must be reset before installing. You flip the ratchet pawl up and push the plunger back in. The install it with the two small bolts. Then you put the spring and large Bolt in. You want to make sure the main body is tightened down before doing the center Bolt.
https://ibb.co/hDJABm
Sorry I guess that wouldnt upload from imgur. So looking at this where would the tensioner be?
Sorry I guess that wouldnt upload from imgur. So looking at this where would the tensioner be?
Well you guys helped tremendously, I got the timing chain around the gear. Tightened the bolts to reattach the gear and cam. Then BAM fucking overly tightened the bolts, my cam has a split in it. Gunna have to buy a new gear. Well I did run into something until the gear comes in. I marked these two.. I don't even know what the fuck these are. They go underneath the bolt like a washer. It looked like they would scrape against the wall of the engine once I fitted the valve head. Also do they need any play or should I tighten them down in place? So frustrated the cam just fucking snapped.
https://ibb.co/g4LC96
https://ibb.co/g4LC96
Man, that sucks. Sorry.
Those tabs are stoppers for the decompression mechanism. Bolt em down. (To spec)
You really should consider getting a nice torque wrench. Not from harbor freight either. It is very critical to follow torque specs, as im sure you just learned. A one time purchase of a nice torque wrench can save you a ton of money in broken parts.
I might have a factory 660 cam if you need one....
Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
Those tabs are stoppers for the decompression mechanism. Bolt em down. (To spec)
You really should consider getting a nice torque wrench. Not from harbor freight either. It is very critical to follow torque specs, as im sure you just learned. A one time purchase of a nice torque wrench can save you a ton of money in broken parts.
I might have a factory 660 cam if you need one....
Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
A member on here had those parts made. The pins that hold the weights on have nuts on the back side to help hold them in place. Those aluminum tabs / covers that go over the weight ends and under the Cam gear bolts keep the ends of the weights contained in the event that the pins loosen up.
The factory setup just has the pins pressed in place and they can start to loosen up over time. There is a small lip on the Cam gear that keeps the weights from opening to far. Once the pins loosen up the ends of the weights can ride up and over the small lip on the gear. When that happens they catch on the cylinder head and Cam / rocker cover and tear the hell out of things. Weights will punch holes in the top cover.
Also those nuts on the decompression weight pins can be to close to the ears on the Cam. Make sure they are not interfering when the gear is being installed other wise that can also lead to breaking the ears on the Cam.
The factory setup just has the pins pressed in place and they can start to loosen up over time. There is a small lip on the Cam gear that keeps the weights from opening to far. Once the pins loosen up the ends of the weights can ride up and over the small lip on the gear. When that happens they catch on the cylinder head and Cam / rocker cover and tear the hell out of things. Weights will punch holes in the top cover.
Also those nuts on the decompression weight pins can be to close to the ears on the Cam. Make sure they are not interfering when the gear is being installed other wise that can also lead to breaking the ears on the Cam.
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